Thread: Tanslucents Slurried With......

Originally Posted by matt321

Thanks for bringing this up. I haven't tried this yet, but I've been doing similar things with a Spyderco UF. I have a translucent as well, and I may try that too based on your suggestions. So far I've used Naniwa synthetic nagura slurry, Naniwa 10k and 12k slurry, and 0.5 micron diamond spray on the UF.

Here is a WSW post desribing the UF method:
An inexpensive "superhone"

RW also recommends .3 micron Alumina abrasive slurry.

I like the fact that when the slurry is applied to the hard stone you get the benefits of cutting speed without the constant lapping needs of softer stones. It seemed to me that the slurries from the Naniwas cut faster and coarser than the parent hones. My sharpest results have been with the 0.5 diamond spray.

Keith Degras from Hand American said this in a post a couple years ago: "When it comes to maintenance stones I only use one, a surgical black Arkansas stone that I spritz with 1 micron boron carbide & water." I myself haven't tried that yet.

Thanks for that post. Yes, the hard stones were important for me for my carving tools and was very suprised how functional and economical my Arkies could be for that purpose.
My next thought was to try with razors but on a finer stone. I don't think the Arkie provides much more than a very flat, non distorting substrate to hone on top of. Now the spydies might be an even better candidate for my tools as they might even make the whole process more aggresive.
I do notice a major difference on how a finer translucent makes a huge difference in the finish on a razor as I have different arkies. Slightly rougher ones cut faster with slurry but don't finish as nice for razors.
My best razor came off the finest trans with the slurry going almost dry at the end, I doubt the razor came into contact with the slow cutting arkie, it was ride on the slurry film that was broken down very fine.

Sounds like you need a Kanaban.

Nothing new under the sun, eh Jim? This is likely the reason why the Arkie made of pure silicate is effective. The pure silicate is "softer" on hardness scales than other abrasive material including Jnat.
Japanese steel is very close to hardness of arkie stone, but with slurries from Jnat they are transformed into powerful cutters. I have an "Arkie Kanaban." that is rust proof and pretty.

Originally Posted by JimR

Sounds like you need a Kanaban.

Thanks for that link. It confirms an idea I had. I just picked up 3 of those but mine are
2' x 2' precision ground cast iron surface plates. The precision grinding does leave a surface texture that will grab loose abrasive. I hope to try them out this spring.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Thanks for that link. It confirms an idea I had. I just picked up 3 of those but mine are
2' x 2' precision ground cast iron surface plates. The precision grinding does leave a surface texture that will grab loose abrasive. I hope to try them out this spring.

Randy, I've never used one myself, but from what I understand they are primarily used for coarse flattening work. I know woodworkers often use them for grinding the flat side of planes and chisels, but I don't know how high up the fineness ladder they take it.

Having tried to flatten some plane blades on diamond plates, I can see the advantage of having a really heavy, tough surface if you have to do it a lot.

Originally Posted by JimR

Iunderstand they are primarily used for coarse flattening work..

Exactly what I was thinking. My intention is to use them for the very hard natural stones like Arkansas, Charnley Forest, CH12k, TOS, etc. and using it to do the bulk of the coarse work.

I was also considering converting one plate to a lapping plate, with cross diagonal grooves. I will see how it works without the grooves first.

BTW, the reason I purchased 3 was that they were all in one auction lot.

i have tried couple Arkansas stones.
I agree they are slow cutters.
Some of them very fine i have seen only 1. i am sure there is a lot more out there but sometimes luck has to play some role to find good one.

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

i have tried couple Arkansas stones.
I agree they are slow cutters.
Some of them very fine i have seen only 1. i am sure there is a lot more out there but sometimes luck has to play some role to find good one.

You are right Sham. Just because it is translucent, does not mean that it will be the best for razors from what I have tried. They say the grit size is all the same, but only the highest density stone is what makes them finest. Dan is also a geologist, so I hope my money will be well spent.
I am having Dan make me up a 8-3 bench stone size. I told him I wanted the finest one, I will give it a review when it comes. If it is like the other one I bought from his quarry from independent vendor that is very fine it will be fantastic.
Problem is with Arkies is that even the people who run quarries don't know too much about razors.

sorry go keep it

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Exactly what I was thinking. My intention is to use them for the very hard natural stones like Arkansas, Charnley Forest, CH12k, TOS, etc. and using it to do the bulk of the coarse work.

I was also considering converting one plate to a lapping plate, with cross diagonal grooves. I will see how it works without the grooves first.

BTW, the reason I purchased 3 was that they were all in one auction lot.

Randy, a lapping plate is an excellent Idea. I use a plate of polished granite with powders sometimes, but never thought of putting grooves in it...might have to do that.

Unfortunately, the biggest kanaban I can find here is only about 3 inches wide. I'd like a good foot for a lapping plate. I'd ask you to send me one, but shipping a 2'x2' plate of steel would be ridiculous.

Originally Posted by JimR

I'd ask you to send me one, but shipping a 2'x2' plate of steel would be ridiculous.

Yup, they weigh between 200-300 lbs each!