Thread: How I finish with (insert finisher here)

Before I start, please don't muddy the water if you have not honed over 50 razors on one particular finisher.

We all know that a great shaving edge starts at the bevel setting, but the "magic" is in the finisher. I have been fortunate enough to obtain several finishers, but other than trial and error I have not found a thread to refer to.

It sure would be nice to hear how a veteran on particular stone finishes their razors so that I or anyone else could use their method as a starting point.

I'm talking about wiki stuff here...

I will start:

Charnley Forrest w/ oil
Starting point: Progression of Shapton Glasstones 1,4,8,16K

I start with adding three drops of Kroil evenly spaced on the stone. I started out using 3n1 oil and found it to be literally too thick. I then went to sewing machine oil that was thinner and it really works well. Kroil is even thinner and helps to speed up the finishing on a CF, which we all know is a slow finisher. The work is worth it though.

I use slow, I repeat slow "X" strokes. Fast strokes on oil causes the blade to literally "hydroplane" on the stone and you will be getting nowhere fast. I start out with 10 strokes alternating sides each stroke. Wipe the blade, and repeat. I normally go about 50-60 strokes per blade depending on the blade hardness, wiping the blade at each 10. With TI's, I usually start at 75.

If you are using sewing machine oil or other oil that is thicker than Kroil, expect to increase your passes 25-50%.

Next blade, three drops of Kroil and repeat...

Originally Posted by shooter74743

We all know that a great shaving edge starts at the bevel setting, but the "magic" is in the finisher.
.

This is soooooooooo True i wouldn't be more then happy to tell my finishers.

Tried.
C.f
Escher.
Coticule
Japan(many of them)

depends on the blade i will most likely will change the finisher
SS blade most likely CF
German made blade Escher
Japanese could use for any razor except GErman made.

Thanks Sham, that's a start...now, how do you finish a blade on each of the stones?

Originally Posted by shooter74743

Thanks Sham, that's a start...now, how do you finish a blade on each of the stones?

Cf i use only with oil.
Escher only with slurry.
Japanese only with slurry.
Coticule doesn't make me happy. what i use with slurry without it or dilution
Except Salm coticule.
Very important use only weight of the blade.
Slow strokes lets say stone is 7 inch long.
1 stroke should last approximately 5 second.
hope this helps.

I have tried
coticule
escher
thuri
Jnats many of them

Coticule- I use it very very rarely
I use the standard slurry dilution method and works fine

Escher and Thury -I use them very very rarely
Ialways use with slurry and dilute to finish on water.

Jnats- I get top notch edges on anything with them.
I have several with different hardness but all very fine to accommodate different steels.
When I use naguras ot Jnat stone progression, I always use slurry diluted to water only to finish.
If I use my synthetic progression I always finish on water only.

I am waiting on a Frankonina to arrive and will give it a good work out to see how it is compared to the rest.

Don't want to muddy the waters, but thank you for the "slow" and the "three drops" advice. I've struggled with my CF, and will try these tips.

Naniwa SS 12k - Finish with clear water using 3 heel forward x 3 "X" strokes very slow until the hone goes to just damp...

Shapton GS 30k - Finish with clear water with a 3 forward, 2 spine leading, 1 forward

Escher/Thuringen - About 20 pigtail passes with light slurry dilute to clear water with very slow X strokes and heel forward strokes

Nakayama Midori (very hard) - 20 pigtail strokes with a light slurry until the slurry breaks down and feels like talc, then I slowly do heel forward and X strokes until dry..

Select Grade Coticule - mostly on Sheffield Steel, 20 pigtails with light slurry and finish out to clear water

PHIG - mostly on Swedes, 20 pigtails with light slurry and finish out slowly to clear water using at least 20 clear water feather light strokes at the end..

CF - Still working on what I like best with this one... Right now I am playing with a water, slurry, and soap finish..

Arkansas - about 80-100 feather light slow X strokes on Honing oil

Long Swaty - About 15 lathered X strokes

Norton 8k - Finish to clear water stop and rinse stone wipe of excess water and do feather light heel forward and X strokes very slow until damp...


All my finishers are used only after the razor is already "Shaving Sharp", this is the most important part in my eyes, going to the Finish early I personally think is most people's problem...

Gssixgun - That's a really interesting and detailed summary; thanks!

10 strokes on a Carborundum 103 using very light x strokes, usually with a swipe of soap from a brush.

Since that is how I re-touch, that is how I also finish.

My starting point is always a 1k Chosera and then a run up either 1/3/8k Naniwa SS or 1/4/8k Shapton. As Glen said, I always make sure the razor is shaving sharp when I come off the 8k.

Nakayama Maruichi & CF - 25 strokes with medium slurry, 25 strokes with light slurry, 25 strokes with water and then 25 strokes to dry. This seems to work really well on both of these stones and gives me the best CF edge I have had so far..!

Coticule - 15 strokes with medium slurry, 15 strokes with light slurry, 15 strokes with water and then 25 strokes to dry. My coti seems to be fairly fast cutting relative to my other finishers so I reduced the number of strokes. This works pretty well for me and I like the edges it gives. Its also a small stone (6"x2").

Shapton 16k & Naniwa 12k - 10 strokes with light slurry, 10 strokes with water and thats it!

All the X strokes I do are super super light on the finishers and then I go straight to a plain strop afterwards.