Thread: The multi-bevel micro-bevel challenge!

I've got 2 Henckels Friodur INOX with the factory edges. Could hone one normal and one with a double bevel. If that's OK, count me in!

Howard

I know we have not started yet but I was having trouble getting a really decent edge on a nice Shumate yesterday. I took through my Naniwa SS progression and finished on my Ozuku Asagi I got from Maxim. The shave was ok, but not great. I tried some .5 diamond spray on hard felt and it improved but still not quite there. I figured what the heck, I put two layers of tape on it and did 15 light laps on water on my Asagi then 60 laps on linen and 80 on leather. I just got done shaving with it. Great shave, nice and sharp and very smooth.

Now what does it all mean? Nothing really, it might have been just as good without the tape. I am really looking forward to doing some experimenting with multi bevels. The theory behind it makes sense to me. If nothing else it is another tool for when you are having trouble.

By the way, anyone can participate in this experiment. If you don't have more than one identical razor I wont discriminate. Any experimentation is a good thing when trying to learn.

Since you guys called the current one Janorton, I think we should call this one Micro-Beval February 2012.

I do love the micro bevel system for some razors, IMHO, it does do as stated further up the line of this thread to help out some of those stuborn St8's, I have two that have a whole LOT of spine wear and as it follows fairly wide bevels, as a result I did put the best 1k bevel I could on them with one layer of tape and then for the finishing stage I put on 2 more layers and used a light touch to make certain of an even edge.
Maybe not news to the more experianced, but it tickled me no end when I FINALLY figured that one out.

YMMV, have a good one, tinkersd.

This is a great idea. You may count me in with a DOVO best carbon and a DOVO INOX stainless. Both are 5/8". Both are in great shaving form with no micro-bevel.

COMMENTARY and SUGGESTIONS: My research on razor blade manufacturing reveals a three bevel process of ~325, 550, and 800 grit stages. Of course they use coatings which fill-in the scratch marks and smooth the final edge. Each stage is at a slightly higher angle. This is not what I would suggest with this exercise. The SR really just needs the final grit to create the micro-bevel, typically 8K or finer. My experience with micro-bevels is similar to Lynn in that I have tried with and without and obtained comparable results. However, I think the micro-bevel approach may have merit for first time honers in that it almost guarantees that you are hitting the edge the full length of the blade. You still need to lay down a solid primary bevel before applying the tape. I will also skip the CrO to make sure that is not a variable. Here are the steps that I will perform.

1) Create the primary with 4k, 8K, and 12K stones (I rarely need the 1K), using no tape

2) Apply one layer of tape, then 30 or more laps on the 12k until the micro-bevel is clearly visible under 20X loupe.

3) Strop for 60-80 laps on leather, remove tape, HHT, then shave test

4) Report back on the results as WORSE, EQUIVALENT, or BETTER when compared to the single primary.

Can you see the Micro bevel at 20 X,Zowada says not,I cannot see it at 80X.

He is probably right for most loupes. The 20x level is the minimum magnification for sure, but you can definitely see the micro-bevel at 20X under certain conditions.

1) Get an excellent loupe. I use the famous, color true, gemologists loupe from Belomo. The FOV is wide and much clearer than cheaper 20x models which I have used and could not see Jack, much less a micro-bevel. I have a microscope to compare this magnification, but I prefer the speed and convenience of a loupe. I can examine the full length of the blade in less than a minute with a loupe.

2) Experience, angle, and lighting are crucial. I have attached a direct/indirect adjustable LED that lights the bevel in variable ways.

3) It is inconvenient, but natural lighting can be BIG plus if you can manage it.

4) Lastly, if you only do 10 laps on a 12k you will not see the micro-bevel unless you are at 100x or more. At these grit levels you really need to go 40 plus laps before the width is visible at 20x magnification. If you can't see it at 20x then you may not have hit the full length of the blade. But if you can just see it at 20x you can be sure that you have created a full micro-bevel.

Of course, if you have anything greater than 20x then by all means use it.

Originally Posted by Gammaray

He is probably right for most loupes. The 20x level is the minimum magnification for sure, but you can definitely see the micro-bevel at 20X under certain conditions.

1) Get an excellent loupe. I use the famous, color true, gemologists loupe from Belomo. The FOV is wide and much clearer than cheaper 20x models which I have used and could not see Jack, much less a micro-bevel. I have a microscope to compare this magnification, but I prefer the speed and convenience of a loupe. I can examine the full length of the blade in less than a minute with a loupe.

2) Experience, angle, and lighting are crucial. I have attached a direct/indirect adjustable LED that lights the bevel in variable ways.

3) It is inconvenient, but natural lighting can be BIG plus if you can manage it.

4) Lastly, if you only do 10 laps on a 12k you will not see the micro-bevel unless you are at 100x or more. At these grit levels you really need to go 40 plus laps before the width is visible at 20x magnification. If you can't see it at 20x then you may not have hit the full length of the blade. But if you can just see it at 20x you can be sure that you have created a full micro-bevel.

Of course, if you have anything greater than 20x then by all means use it.

I work quite a bit with micro bevels, I can tell you that 40 laps on a fast cutting high grit synthetic stones could be bad for a good shave.

You may be right about the 40 laps for your technique, but not for mine. The pressure and angle (1 or 2 tape layers) plays an important role in determining the lap number. My Naniwa 12k does a beautiful job laying down a shave ready micro-bevel using very light pressure in ~40 laps. Some users may need less than this. Thanks for the clarification.