Thread: Thank god I didn't win.

From the original auction:

HUGE BLADE WITH A GREAT GRIND,ONLY MARKING IS WADE WHICH WOULD DATE IT 1810-1818,HE PARTNERED WITH BUTCHER IN 1818,THE TOP IF THE BLADE IS 1/4" AND IS ETCHED "MAGNUM BONUM"

Originally Posted by Hart

I was auto topped by 5 bucks but I don't doubt the winner had a ceiling of 500 or more. It's more than I could afford really, but sometimes your eyes just roll back and you enter zombie mode.

Attachment 172687

Was at the in-laws yesterday, was watching that on my phone...just checked it this morning and yea, wow, that went for an incredible price. But it certainly is an older, more unique W&B, and I'm sure whoever got it will be happy with it.

On the other hand, stumbled onto an auction yesterday with 3 minutes left, for a 9/8 W&B, FBU, was at $210.00. Couldn't believe it. Figured I'd hop in, what the heck, worth a go, figured this would end at around $450 as well, if not higher, and I'd be out....it didn't, my bid didn't even auto jump once....score for $210.00 and shipped for $3.50 right here in Ontario.

Gotta love those auctions that end at weird times...Saturday afternoon of all times!

Originally Posted by WW243

Thanks Bob, but the heel has no edge whatsoever.

OK, I see it now. Hate when that happens. Time for some expert advice from a honemeister then. Other than that it is looking good though.

Bob

Originally Posted by Phrank

Was at the in-laws yesterday, was watching that on my phone...just checked it this morning and yea, wow, that went for an incredible price. But it certainly is an older, more unique W&B, and I'm sure whoever got it will be happy with it.

On the other hand, stumbled onto an auction yesterday with 3 minutes left, for a 9/8 W&B, FBU, was at $210.00. Couldn't believe it. Figured I'd hop in, what the heck, worth a go, figured this would end at around $450 as well, if not higher, and I'd be out....it didn't, my bid didn't even auto jump once....score for $210.00 and shipped for $3.50 right here in Ontario.

Gotta love those auctions that end at weird times...Saturday afternoon of all times!

I watched that one carefully but I didn't like the description of how he buffed the blade with a wheel and pastes so I was worried about the blade. I even asked a question here about the method he used so I stayed away. Let us know if the scales are original and the blade is in good shape. Thanks

Trade mark recognition. Can you say Duck ? Same thing. You know your getting a popular brand with a great reputation.

To get the height out of that bevel it will need a regrind. Not a heavy one but the blade thickness at the bevel is why it's so high. This may also be why you can't hit the heel without going after it with special moves on the hone. This is caused by hone wear of course and also may be the result of chip removal. If the width is reduced on a blade removing a chip you are increasing the width of it at the bevel and therefore height in the bevel. Remember your not decreasing the spine width to match. Regrinds are a pita and many don't like to go there. Concentrating on just the bevel area and keeping it cool while grinding is the key to doing it right. It's also going to have a little more hollow to it in the end.

I do console myself with having won the other:


From the description:
MARKED WADE & BUTCHER ON TOP OF BLADE & PATENT TEMPERED STEEL ON TANG,EARLY RAZOR c1840's
I don't know about 1840s but it is older.

Originally Posted by 10Pups

Trade mark recognition. Can you say Duck ? Same thing. You know your getting a popular brand with a great reputation.

To get the height out of that bevel it will need a regrind. Not a heavy one but the blade thickness at the bevel is why it's so high. This may also be why you can't hit the heel without going after it with special moves on the hone. This is caused by hone wear of course and also may be the result of chip removal. If the width is reduced on a blade removing a chip you are increasing the width of it at the bevel and therefore height in the bevel. Remember your not decreasing the spine width to match. Regrinds are a pita and many don't like to go there. Concentrating on just the bevel area and keeping it cool while grinding is the key to doing it right. It's also going to have a little more hollow to it in the end.

Doesn't appear to have any unusual hone wear to me. Why not use a special stroke on the hone vs grinding metal off the blade?

Originally Posted by GC7

I watched that one carefully but I didn't like the description of how he buffed the blade with a wheel and pastes so I was worried about the blade. I even asked a question here about the method he used so I stayed away. Let us know if the scales are original and the blade is in good shape. Thanks

Yes, I keep wondering who, "Joe" is whenever I read a description of one of his blades????

But, he has a return policy, say's if you don't like it, send it back, since it's minimum postage and in the same Province, figured I can't really go wrong...a 9/8 FBU for that price??? I couldn't see any bluing, but an inspection will tell...

Originally Posted by Phrank

Yes, I keep wondering who, "Joe" is whenever I read a description of one of his blades????

But, he has a return policy, say's if you don't like it, send it back, since it's minimum postage and in the same Province, figured I can't really go wrong...a 9/8 FBU for that price??? I couldn't see any bluing, but an inspection will tell...

I was wondering who Joe was also. Lol

Wonder if he will take a return if you hone it yourself and it won't hold a edge. He has listed some really nice razors.

Originally Posted by Hart

I do console myself with having won the other:


From the description:
MARKED WADE & BUTCHER ON TOP OF BLADE & PATENT TEMPERED STEEL ON TANG,EARLY RAZOR c1840's
I don't know about 1840s but it is older.

This'n'll be mighty purdy!! I bet that felt better.

Congratulations!!!