Thread: What can I remove the pins off the scales with?

Originally Posted by Mathew

Well those are the pictures I promise I uploaded...

What the hell is that thang?





Yeah, disregard all posts prior to your photo reveal. They were about something entirely different.

I'm out, i have zero experience with those contraptions.

good luck.

Yes I'm assuming its all steel accept for the scales of course. Alright Ill try that I'm open to any methods.

Originally Posted by Mathew

Yes I'm assuming its all steel accept for the scales of course. Alright Ill try that I'm open to any methods.

Sorry I missed the fact it had scales that were something other than metal. I see them now in your hand. Boiling may not be the best option depending on their material. I had assumed it was all metal when I suggested that.

But there are option for cleaning inside scales:

- you can usually get in there with a q-tip or even some cloth. Just be careful not to force it as scales can crack and break very easily.
- in tight spots: dental floss and some cleaner or polish can really help too.

Ditto what WadePatton said in his last post above... I thought we were speaking about a SR like the one pictured on the SRP Front Page at the Top.

Your Razor is very cool Matthew! I have never seen anything like it and would love to see pics of it lying flat on a table and with a blade loaded... Just for curiosity sake!

+1 on the Q-Tip suggestion and I'll add you can smash the tips flat with a pair of pliers, hammer, etc and then it will really get in spots like that slot better... You can even remove all the cotton then whittle the rolled cardboard to a point to get deep in the angles. I don't know what they are called but the Wooden Cuticle Tools that have a spiked end and an oblique/flat/spadish end would work great as well. You can also use toothpaste as a polish loading it onto the cotton of the Q-Tip/Cotton Swab.

Lastly, just to clarify, ppm is Parts Per Million so the chlorine concentraion I was speaking of before is 5 drops Clorox/Chlorine to a 'million' drops water... The 3-5ppm is what is required for Public Pools to remain open and will sanitize as well as oxidize really anything you are likely to be concerned about. People tend to think the concentration must be higher but it does not for Pools. And, pools have stainless steel handrails as well as ladders and misc other metal parts which eventually have issues with corrosion but it takes a very, very long time... For people really concerned about sanitizing this is a super cheap and effective method.

Very cool project you have there! Have fun with it and post more pics when you are done so we can all see the results.

Shawn
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I think if you used "hydrocide" and it's a similar product to "Barbacide"? and assuming you read the directions. Barbacide is cut with water I think it's 2 oz. to 32 oz of water? don't quote me on that one....give it a 10 minute soak. Pull it out of the solution and let it air dry. Then rinse it off with water. I would use a metal polish to make it shine. Honestly it uses a disposable blade, I would make sure the holder is clean and put a new blade in it and shave...

Originally Posted by WadePatton

What the hell is that thang?

I think that's a Parker replaceable blade "Straight Barber's Razor", or possibly a copy of one; the crossed arrows within a circle is a Parker symbol. Here's a photo of a current SR1 model:

Originally Posted by Dzanda

I think that's a Parker "Straight Barber's Razor", or possibly a copy of one; the crossed arrows within a circle is a Parker symbol. Here's a photo of a current SR1 model:

Am I seeing that correctly? A hollow pivot "pin"? If you still want to take that out I'd drill it and then replace with tubing if i could source the right diameter or a solid pin as "normal" old-timey razors use. Being hollow makes it a simple operation once you figger out how to keep it from spinning. Heck a pop-rivet could work for replacement. If you haven't drilled out rivets before, you might practice on some.

But I wouldn't dink with it unless i was replacing the scales and then one could bush/fill the blade hole and use traditional pins/washers. I like epoxy to resize holes in old blades as it reduces h20 access to inaccessible places. [/drift]