Thread: A very big problem, help before ................

Just throwing this out there. Are your stones flat?

Being a wedge, I find that warping to be highly unlikely, not impossible just unlikely. Lay it on a known flat surface and check to see if light appears between the spine and surface. Do this for both sides and if it is bent the light will pass under at different points side to side.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Looking at the scratch pattern is appears you go straight across the hone ? No X stroke ? Even with a warped spine a modified rolling x will compensate. A PITA but that is what it takes IME. Also, from the look of it I would expect it was a very coarse hone and/or a lot of pressure ? Not trying to rub salt into the wound, just trying to see what the source of the problem may have been.

BTW, the marker is quite easy to use. Take a magic marker. a sharpie, and color the very edge of the blade. As you do a stroke or two across the hone only the places the bevel touches will have the color removed. You do it until you see what stroke is working effectively. Then wipe the marker off the blade and continue honing.

The blade may be fixable as far as cosmetics and use are concerned. If it is a wedge, and there is enough meat there, you might be able to send it out and have it correctly honed to be usable, and polished so it won't be such an eyesore.

first of all thanks a lot for very help, i allways do X and with same DMT 320 to fix a bevel and i did about 20 razor before, never hapend like that, Jimmy no presure, just i dont know what hapend

Originally Posted by jemmo

yes i dit , i but not much pressure, i did like i use to do , never hapend like that.

I would stop honing that way. This is what can happen with too much time or too much pressure.

On the plus side it looks like you may have the bevel set ?
If so add one extra layer of tape to what you had & go lightly with one hand.

I think the spine may have excess wear, is warped & has been polished to hide it ?
Wedges are notorious for warps & bad wear patterns.

Feel bad for you jemmo sorry man,I think all you have now is a box cutter,JMO

Originally Posted by Iceni

That looks to be a shallow grind if anything.

I'd take all the tape off, and run a full stone progression keeping a very close eye on it. Once you get to the finishing stones you should be able to work the rest of the grind marks out with Crox on a cloth.

Then go back and rehone it on 4 layers of tape again, but this time pay more attention and if it's catching those high spots add more tape.

You can do some simple math to work out your maximum spine width using trigonometry.

split the razor into two mathematical right angled triangles down the spine, and work in 1/2 spine width and hypotenuse (distance from widest part of the spine to the edge). The resultant angle will be 1/2 the final bevel. so for a 20 degree bevel your looking at 10 degrees per side.

Attachment 170332

it is lite bit over course for me but i trying to understand,

I had thought of that but the wear marks would be somewhat symmetrical side to side not asymmetrical as they are.

Originally Posted by Iceni

That looks to be a shallow grind if anything.

I'd take all the tape off, and run a full stone progression keeping a very close eye on it. Once you get to the finishing stones you should be able to work the rest of the grind marks out with Crox on a cloth.

Then go back and rehone it on 4 layers of tape again, but this time pay more attention and if it's catching those high spots add more tape.

You can do some simple math to work out your maximum spine width using trigonometry.

split the razor into two mathematical right angled triangles down the spine, and work in 1/2 spine width and hypotenuse (distance from widest part of the spine to the edge). The resultant angle will be 1/2 the final bevel. so for a 20 degree bevel your looking at 10 degrees per side.

Attachment 170332

i think i understand u , ok first start to hone with my DMT 320 without any tape and go upp with the ston until my natural stone , still without tape and i will not care about spine, because spine gonna hones too, and after all that begin with DMT 320 upp to natural stone with 4 layer tape, do i understand u, am i right?

it is lite bit over course for me but i trying to understand,

I'll make it as easy as I can for you.

this is a RAT (right angled triangle) calculator.

Right-Angled Triangle Calculator

we use: red edge a (spine) and red edge c (hypotenuse).

to give use: Black angle A.


Because a razor isn't a right angled triangle we split the razor in half.

so you use half of your spine width, and the resultant angle will be half of the total angle.


So.

Spine = 8mm
Hypotenuse = 25mm

therefore

8/2 = 4 units for red edge a
red edge c = 25 units

hit calculate.

resultant angle A = 9.21 degrees.

remember this is only half of the razor. So you multiply the final angle by 2.

so 9.21 x 2 = 18.42 degrees.


Provided you know your hypotenuse, you can measure your spine with tape and use the calculator to make sure the final angle is between 17 and 21 degrees. If it is more than 21, then you need to remove tape. If it is less than 17 then you need to add tape. And anything in the middle should be fine to shave with.



Yeah the hone progression is to remove that huge bevel.

Use your stones to polish the big bevel out, Once you have done your progression the finish should be good enough to polish the rest out by hand.

Then do a full new bevel using tape.

Originally Posted by JTmke

Just throwing this out there. Are your stones flat?

yes it flat, sure 100%, before that i hone a issard, dandy with same stone and that is very good.