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Thread: I'm a Canadian, eh !
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10-15-2014, 01:58 AM #11
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- Aug 2012
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Thanked: 0- - - I'm a newbie, but I haven't matured yet. ie. I'm still back in the dark ages when I have to use a safety razor.(LOL) Its not supposed to be that way, but it seems that straight razors are making a huge comeback.
- - - I just don't think that it is necessary to have a perfect edge from one end to the other as I said in a previous post. It should be possible to get a shave-sharp bevel on just the first inch or so from the tip, albeit more time-consuming to shave. But . . . . what do I know .
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10-15-2014, 02:04 AM #12
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- Aug 2012
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Thanked: 0- - - Hmmmm, good question. I think I did join, but couldn't figure out how the site worked. The problems are still the same. My mainstay is a safety razor, otherwise I would have a beard down to the floor. This has now become an exercise in frustration; I give it up for a few weeks and then get a flash of inspiration eg. maybe I did this or that wrong, but so far, no luck.
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10-15-2014, 02:06 AM #13
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Thanked: 0
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10-15-2014, 02:19 AM #14
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- Mar 2012
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- Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Thanked: 3228I believe people are telling you it is important to have the bevel set along the whole length of the blade regardless of what you believe. They are right.
When you use a sharpie you mark the whole bevel not just spots along it. Once you have the whole length of the bevel marked you can the see where you are not touching the bevel while honing. The entire bevel should be clean of any sharpie marks.
You haven't said if you have lapped your hones to make sure they are really flat/level.
There can be geometry problems with the blade that will make it difficult to hone.
If you have done the same thing for 2 years while honing and gotten nowhere it is time to do something different, like listen to what folks are trying to tell you.
BobLife is a terminal illness in the end
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10-15-2014, 02:27 AM #15
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- Aug 2013
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- Orangeville, Ontario
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Thanked: 4207I'm a relative new straight shaver as well, and if I read your posts right you are thinking that just shaving with the top say 1" of blade actually set correctly will shave comfortably?
I think, if only that area of the blade was allowed to touch your face maybe, but presuming you are honing and stropping the whole blade at the same time, there will be some areas close to shave ready and others not, so your face will overall just feel harsh.
The bevel needs to be set the entire length of the blade, not the same width necessarily, but at the point where the two planes meet, for sure set straight and true.
Adding tape to the spine during honing will allow for a smaller bevel, more concentrated at the edge and will allow for spine irregularities to some degree as well.
I rushed from the bevel very often, and still do at times, but it is, as everyone else has indicated, is the key difference between shaving, and enjoying shaving with a straight.
Good luck.
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10-15-2014, 03:20 AM #16
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- Jul 2014
- Location
- Montreal
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- 62
Thanked: 8I'm newbie too.
When I first started, I read a lot. And I took the advice of those who are experienced and who act as mentors to folks like me.
I started slow. I started with a shave-ready razor. I visited someone who showed me some basics - shave angle, grip, stropping. I took it easy - and generally speaking I've had and excellent experience so far.
Also I didn't go near hones. At least, not until I had worked downwards - initially just stropping, then a pasted strop, the finally a small finishing hone, and now more recently I've acquired a 3K/8K Naniwa. At each step going slowly and deliberately, trying to understand and to learn the craft. I have a long way to go - but I feel like I'm on the right path, one step at a time.
So, i don't want to sound disparaging, and certainly I mean no disrespect, but if you take some of the advice on here to heart, you may not get frustrated after a few weeks.
- Send your FR (Fred Reynolds) out to get professionally honed
- Learn to strop
- Go over your technique with someone who can help - if you let us know where you are on the east coast (that's pretty broad), maybe there might be a member near you.
Good luck to you.
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10-15-2014, 04:35 AM #17--There will be an edit.....wait for it...wait for it... There we go.
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10-15-2014, 11:42 AM #18
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- Aug 2012
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Thanked: 0- - - I will listen to people, but what annoys me is that most people who use straights can tell you what works, but not "why" it works, which is tantamount to saying that they are simply relying on experience. Most people simply don't know why.
As for my 4000/8000 stones, I don't know why you would suggest that they might not be flat; they are virtually brand new with only the little usage of my own.
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10-15-2014, 11:45 AM #19
Barry2 seeing that you have been stuggling to put a edge on your blade, I would recommend you send it out to be honed by a pro. They would have the knowledge to correct problems that perhaps your missing. Then you can maintain that edge with your Norton.
Last edited by TrilliumLT; 10-15-2014 at 11:51 AM.
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10-15-2014, 11:55 AM #20
Virtually all stones need to be lapped that is a given , and to quote a well known hone guy here. " honing a razor is easy till it isn't" get the razor pro honed first then you will have an idea of what it is your trying to achieve , and donT send the gold dollar they might not be able to fix it if it's one of the bad ones ,, as you now see it is not easily done just because the jig is built in, it's pressure and feel and having your hones flat, and you need to start at the bevel first , so you might not be equipped for it, let someone fix it for you and then move on, your experience level isn't there yet. Can't learn to shave till you have a good edge. Good luck. Tc
“ I,m getting the impression that everyone thinks I have TIME to fix their bikes”