Thread: Questions I'd like to ask before getting my first straight razor

Originally Posted by Crawler

It only took two shaves, rinsing the blade off, before it started to develop rust like a teenager does pimples. After that, I picked up a sponge to wipe the lather.

My razor is a carbon steel one, not stainless steel. Just didn't expect it only takes a few seconds to develop stains after contact with water. I do wrap the blade with protective oil after using it. Seems I can't rinse it without having stains all over the blade, but I guess it might not be a thorough cleaning without rinsing with running water.

Thank you Feltspanky for suggesting products which ease skin irritation. My skin is so sensitive that I can even get redness simply by rubbing on the face or neck with my hand.

Originally Posted by alfaspider75

My razor is a carbon steel one, not stainless steel. Just didn't expect it only takes a few seconds to develop stains after contact with water. I do wrap the blade with protective oil after using it. Seems I can't rinse it without having stains all over the blade, but I guess it might not be a thorough cleaning without rinsing with running water.

It shouldn't happen that quickly. Rinse it under very hot running water after shaving, which heats the steel some....then dry carefully with a dry tissue staying away from the edge as to not damage it or cut yourself.

Then leave it open in a dry room to let it completely dry. Then and only then apply oil lightly or wipe with an oil or silicon impregnated cloth. If you apply oil too soon, you may be sealing moisture in against the steel.

In short, it isn't the rinsing that is making it rust, it is not drying it completely before you close it. I leave mine out open on top of my dresser for 8-12 hours after shaving to ensure they are completely dry.

the "Knife Shop" probably didn't give you a trues shave ready edge, tc

I use both cartridge and safety razor to shave, and now hoping to get a Dovo straight razor.

You won't go wrong wit this brand, but depending on the cost of the razor it may not be shave ready when you get it and you may have to hone it first. The quality of the blade will probably be good (I don't think Dovo put out rubbish), but depending on what you get, the scales could be cheap plastic. I got a Dov Prima with Ebony scales shat was shave ready out of the box. At $230 it probably cost me $70-$80 more than a basic model I would have to hone first, but I subsidized my purchase with a gift card I got from my job.

some article said disposable blades pull up whiskers a little before cut

Cartridge razors with multiple blades my work this way but a single blade straight razor wouldn't since it can only cut.

Really wish to know so that I can decide which model I want to try.

The main thing about a razor is the steel and the thing that influences that the most is the carbon content ( though manganese, silicon and chromium are also added in ). Silver steel (which is a fairly common tool steel) is used a lot in razors and seems to be pretty good. The difference between silver steel and carbon steel is that silver steel is carbon steel with a defined carbon content between 0.95-1.25%.

And it's been like a myth to me that many say straight razors manufactured some years ago perform better than those produced today, even they came from the same brand. I wonder what makes the difference. The materials has changed? The way they forge them changed?

It probably is a myth. The forging methods used are still the same, just more modern equipment (electric air blowers instead of hand bellows) and they may now have grinders made from composites instead of just stone. One thing that may have changed is the standards. For example silver steel is defined by the British standards document BS1407. Steel that meets this standard is also called Sheffied Silver Steel.

There may have been a different standard used (or a standard may not have existed) back in the day. My guess is that modern methods of forging are superior to those used in the 1800s. Standards for things like razors, surgical tools etc are much higher than they once were.

Now you can probably buy cheap razors from China that are inferior to things made 100 years ago but a modern straight razor from a reputable manufacturer (think Dovo or Theirs-Isssard) will be as good, and probably better, than anything that has come before it (these manufacturers have long histories and reputations to uphold).

That was day one. I read some say straight razors are not meant to be used everyday, is it true? Do I have to wait 48 hours till I can use it again?

Completely mythical. It's a way to ensure that you buy two razors, not one.

One problem you have:

. . . You don't know if the razor is _really sharp_.

Yes, it was sharpened by an expert -- but razors are _not_ knives. The standards for "sharp" are quite different.

Wipe off the oil, hold the blade almost flat against your forearm, as though you were going to shave the hair off. Now, lift the blade about 1/8" _above_ your skin. Move the blade as though you were shaving your arm.

. . . If the blade catches and cuts arm hair _in the air_, it's sharp.

If it doesn't, it's dull. Either ask the seller to fix it (the easy path), or learn to hone it yourself (the hard path).

There's also an "experience factor". But even for an experienced shaver, a dull blade makes for a painful shave.


. Charles

Originally Posted by Haroldg48

In short, it isn't the rinsing that is making it rust, it is not drying it completely before you close it. I leave mine out open on top of my dresser for 8-12 hours after shaving to ensure they are completely dry.

That was how it went. I rinsed the blade with fairly hot water, then I wiped off water drops carefully with a piece of cloth, the stains appeared immediately at where the water drops were. In fact, I didn't have the chance to even close it or place it in poor ventilated location before the stains developed.

I did rinse it before shave to get rid of oil, and I rinsed lather off a few times during the shave, maybe that was long enough for stains to emerge.

I will try very hot water next time. Thanks a lot!

I put on one drop of gun oil on a piece of tissue paper and wipe the blade for long storage, it shouldn't rust that fast. A really hot water rinse lets the blade dry really fast, that's what works for me.

A highly acidic water or very salty water will do that. After my softener cycles it may happen. I have enough iron in my water to have a squirt gun considered a deadly weapon. Also, some common mouthwash products for teeth will stay on the water/sink as an oil and they will really do a fast number on steel. Yup; don't ask!
~Richard

Originally Posted by alfaspider75

I did rinse it before shave to get rid of oil, and I rinsed lather off a few times during the shave, maybe that was long enough for stains to emerge.
I will try very hot water next time. Thanks a lot!

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

One problem you have:

. . . You don't know if the razor is _really sharp_.

Yes, it was sharpened by an expert -- but razors are _not_ knives. The standards for "sharp" are quite different.

You have a point. Will try the sharpness test.