Thread: Help buying new razor... maybe

None of us were perfect straight razor shavers right off the bat. It is always a matter of progress and learning. The other thing tha had not occurred to me earlier is the whole beard map notion. I have never been a DE user so I have no idea it they apply to DE shaving, I presume they do. However if you have not mapped your beard and devised a shave routine based on the direction of whisker growth now might be a good time. I do two multidirectional passes that gives me a great shave with no irritation and very close.

To get a great shave, you need both a great razor edge and a great shaving technique. A great shaving edge does not necessarily correlate with the price of the razor. For example, an inexpensive Chinese Gold Dollar can take a great edge if honed properly, but it may not hold its edge for long. If you get an expensive custom razor with hard steel, it might be difficult to hone a great edge on the razor, but once you get a great edge, it will hold it for a while.

I now have a collection of 18 straights including vintage, production and custom models. I find that my best edges come on razors that use Solingen steel or Sheffield sliver steels. Dovo makes some nice razors, but I prefer Ralf Aust, Boker and Wacker.

At this point in your shaving journey, you should be able to shave with no more than an occasional nick or weeper. It may take a while longer to learn how to get a close shave without irritation. If you have not done so, try to map the grain direction of your beard for every section of your face and neck. You may find that what you think is with the grain on your first pass is actually across the grain or against the grain. There are some good videos on face mapping.

You will also need to learn the proper razor angle to use for each pass. Generally, it is recommended to start at about a 30 degree angle for the with the grain pass and the decrease the angle for across the grain and then again for against the grain. You also have to know the right blade pressure to use. Then you have to know how to stretch the skin on each area of your face and neck. If it seems like an insurmountable mountain to climb, never fear, before you know it, all this will become second nature. Look at a variety of shaving videos. Not every shaver uses the same technique. Find the technique that works for you.

Part of a great technique is knowing how to get a great lather. You want a slick cushioning lather to soften your beard and protect your skin from contact with the razor's edge.

You will find lots of great folks here who love to help newcomers with finding the right razor, learning how to shaver, learning how to strop and hone, finding the right soap, cream, and brush and learning how to create a great lather. So welcome to the forum.

It took me probably 30-40 shaves before I got consistent with prep, angle, stropping etc.
Try a one spine width off your face angle and see how that goes, also if you have linen on your strop try 30 linen 50 leather before shaving

I have mapped my beard. On my neck it goes in all sorts of directions. With a DE, these multi directions are a breeze. A DE is much more lenient on angle and grip.

With a straight I go down and then up. This is the most ATG and XTG. I am not comfortable enough with the grip on a straight to tackle the weird directions to go a true ATG. Plus the blade seems too wide/long. I have like two cow licks one each side of the neck. Even with a DE it is a task. The DE is more nimble and that makes it easier.

I may have to settle for CCS rather than BBS with a straight.

Glad to hear of your progress. I'm one who shaves every other day to avoid skin sensitivity issues. I find I get closer shaves this way, too. I get an even better shave if I wait until the third day but don't usually wait that long because straight razor shaving is just too much fun.

With time you will figure out how to use the razor differently. You could just use the toe or heel etc. Rarely do you use the full blade at once. There are also different ways of moving the blade like scything strokes. Learning your own face takes longer than you would expect

Lots of excellent advice.

I own and have sold $30-40 razors that shaved just as well as $300+ razors, if not better. Brand is nothing, steel and skill are everything. I also think you got some great advice already, now it's all about practice.

Good job