Thread: question: angle of approach

I was impatient, I guess, because I shaved against the grain from the outset because I wanted a close shave, and there didn't seem to be any other way to get one. I just learned to go both ways. As far as the nose thing, I've never felt my nose threatened because I'm going pretty slow and short at that point, but I do tend to get nicks in some sensitive areas around the corners of my mouth with a full hollow, which will catch on irregularities and bumps more than a quarter or half-hollow or a wedge. I think basically the learning curve is a little steep, but once you have got something comfortable, it's just minor tweaks after that. Habit serves one well not getting crossed up and moving these instruments of destruction the wrong way.

Don J.

wow great vid, you can see the angles of the blade perfectly a few times.

i use that same 2 handed thing when doing under the nose, and when goin ATG under my jawline. adds control in places where it wants to skid

For your neck, I have a similar deal going on, and I do what is sometimes called a sythe. That is, I do a S-N pass with a lateral slide, in your case you'd wanna go W-E. It's almost as good as ATG, almost.

I do have a strop, I'm sure my stropping technique needs work but I'm stropping before and after. I shaved again this morning and I got the corners of my moustache fine today, but I'm feeling a bit of razor burn. Also, my neck feels REALLY sensitive today.. It might be from the different soaps yesterday. Gonna stick to Tabac for a while and let it heal before I start experimenting again.

Originally Posted by fritz

You have to turn the blade edge up, thumb on top of the spine and fingers on the bottom. Razor in right hand, toe pointing to your left, use your left hand to stretch your upper left lip to the SW. Then carefully use the toe of the razor to go ATG towards the nose. Reverse for the right side.

WARNING! This is called the coup de buffon, or the Fool's Pass. You can cut a big chunk of your nose off this way.

Normally, you should not use a full hollow ground carbon steel razor to do this. It's much safer to use a 1/4 or 1/2 hollow razor, which is much stiffer and has less tendency to "stall and jump". (A FHG stainless razor is usually stiff enough, also.)

In any case, you should do the coup de maítre (the Master's Pass) first WTG and then if possible XTG first, to reduce the length of stubble you have to cut ATG.

Be extremely careful with this! It's probably much better if you simply cannot get an acceptable shave in that area to use a DE for that touch-up, until you have lots more experience.

Originally Posted by fritz

Steadiness of hand has nothing to do with the danger I described. It's due to the sharpness (or not) of the blade, its flexibility, and the toughness and length of the whiskers.

The Dovo Best is FHG, and comes in 5/8 or 6/8 widths. (You identify the grind by looking at the razor, after some experience; OR, by looking at the manufacturer's description.)

In general, 1/2 and 1/4 hollow grinds are heavier, since not as much metal is ground away. The Dovo "Best Quality" is a 1/2 hollow grind in 6/8 width.

What about your stropping techniques? (You do have a strop?) Perhaps you have not read enough in the SRP Wiki; lots of good info there.

While I'm here, a wedge sounds like it might be what I'm looking for in the heft department. What should I look for?

Also, my beard is COARSE. I'm talking filed metal shavings coarse. I'm thinking the heavier razor would be better for me in general.

I go XTG only on my upper lip and sides of my mouth and get BBS there. The fools pass thing scares the @#$%@ out of me, I tried it a few times back when I first started, then figured I'd be better off figuring out a different way of getting the job done.

You shouldn't need a heavy razor to shave any beard, just a sharp one. Back when I used an electric my whiskers would occasionally jam the razor and I'd have to turn it off and disassemble the cutting head to get it off my face. I use full hollows nearly exclusively. But they've got to be sharp.

Originally Posted by Arthur

While I'm here, a wedge sounds like it might be what I'm looking for in the heft department. What should I look for?

Also, my beard is COARSE. I'm talking filed metal shavings coarse. I'm thinking the heavier razor would be better for me in general.

I have the same problem! You might want to look at the sticky on the 800-pound gorilla method and other mods to it, at this TSD link. The first recipe is at posting #10, but skim on through it because there are multiple variations that people have found beneficial.

You might want a heavier razor sometime. I would wait until you can shave well with what you have before going off in too many directions. Full wedges are probably not the best for a beginner, but as always YMMV.

being impatient + being obsessive about closeness + razors not very sharp = recipe for disaster

i'd say you better prepare for some suffering and discomfort. get an alum block that should help a bit, good moisturizing aftershaves too and if i'm you i'd probably use antibacterial ointment as well - you'll be missing more skin on your face than necessary.

i sometimes do the fool's pass and as long as the razor is very sharp it doesn't present a problem, the hollowness of the blade doesnt seem to be an issue - i've done it with my most hollowed blades as well.

[QUOTE=gugi;392474]being impatient + being obsessive about closeness + razors not very sharp = recipe for disaster

+1 on above statement.
Now I don't worry about BBS shaves. I go for comfort and that's good enough. The smooth face will come in time.

I'm gonna just throw this out there... I kinda figured out what worked best for my face, some of it isn't conventional. I basically just went WTG XTG ATG my first time shaving, got some cuts the first few weeks, but I'm better now. For the whole mouth area I make an "O" and roll my lips in, go WTG strictly, then from the outside towards my mouth, regardless of grain direction- this allows me to take a second, easier cut free pass before I go ATG. Then I go ATG and its a lot easier. At that point it's more like a clean up pass than anything else, so I've never snagged. Also, try and shave your mustache exclusively with the toe, while minding the heel. I feel this is easier than shaving with any other part and risking your nose. You can curl your lips in, but your nose will always be jutting out like a tree in woods marked for deforestation...