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  1. #1
    Member kevor's Avatar
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    Default 90 degree angle?

    Hey shavers,

    Just started straight razor shaving 2/3 weeks ago and it's pretty cool.
    First I tried the shaving tips, but I find out that I don't really get a close shave when I go with the grain of my hairs.
    I've honed my razor on a 8k grit "Belgium block", stropped it on the canvas-side with glass-polish and after that on the leather side. It's sharp enough to cut a hair suspended in mid air.
    Also I've softened my hairs by a shower or hot water and use shaving soap..

    One thing I've tried is to shave a bit from the 90 degrees angle, like in the picture.


    My question is: is this an accident waiting to happen or have I found out something obvious!?
    With this angle it cuts hair a lot easier and very close to the skin.
    You might wonder why I don't go against the grain.. well

    Greets,
    kevor
    Last edited by kevor; 06-02-2009 at 02:51 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member BHChieftain's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi,

    Check out the advanced shaving techniques on the wiki--

    Advanced shaving techniques for the straight razor - Straight Razor Place Wiki


    -Chief

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    kevor (06-02-2009)

  4. #3
    Large Member ben.mid's Avatar
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    Default

    Not sure if it's an accident waiting to happen, but it does take a bit more care.
    It's a technique that i find useful too.
    I tend to go WTG then XTG to get a little closer. I only go ATG on the cheeks as i'll get ingrowns anywhere else.

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    kevor (06-02-2009)

  6. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Default

    As far as I know a 30 degree angle is the recommended starting point with subtle changes depending on the area and the direction. A lot of it is trial and error. As you continue you will find what works best for you.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  7. #5
    Member kevor's Avatar
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    Default

    Hmm, it seems it's "normal". Quite a handy guide there. Especially the 5 degrees ATG is helpful info.
    I love it that you really have to get some skill, until the day that this skill will be achieved, my skin is in for some troubles :P

  8. #6
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    Default

    I've only straight shaved once, but I did find that the closer to 90 degrees the blade angle was the more it felt like the hair was being pulled instead of cut. I got a little bit more irritation this way.

    That being said, it also seemed like the razor 'skipped' a lot less for me at this angle...so, I guess im no help

  9. #7
    Renaissance Man fritz's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by nrvna76 View Post
    I've only straight shaved once, but I did find that the closer to 90 degrees the blade angle was the more it felt like the hair was being pulled instead of cut. I got a little bit more irritation this way.

    That being said, it also seemed like the razor 'skipped' a lot less for me at this angle...so, I guess im no help
    You and JimmyHAD I think are confusing two different angles: the angle the blade face makes with the skin (about 30 degrees usually) and the angle the blade edge makes with the direction of the stroke (a slight angle either side of 90 degrees is called "scything" and cuts whiskers much easier than "chopping" them with a 90 degree stroke).

  10. #8
    zib
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    Hell Razor zib's Avatar
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    I don't know. I think it depends a lot on the blade itself. I've heard guys saying they've used razors almost laying flat on their face, yet other talk about extreme angles. It would depend a lot on your bevel and razor....I think...sometimes an angle like that, will take the skin off with the hair....be careful.....
    We have assumed control !

  11. #9
    Member kevor's Avatar
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    Default

    Like frits said, I'm talking about the angle of the edge against the direction of the stroke.
    A straight angle (90 degrees) seems to get a lot more resistance from dense beard parts then when I'm "scything".

    You can take a look at the link in BHChieftains post, it's pretty clear.

    Also, if you want to try this, be careful! If your not, it's a sure way to making a nice post in the "If you want blood" thread.
    Last edited by kevor; 06-02-2009 at 02:18 PM.

  12. #10
    Large Member ben.mid's Avatar
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    Default

    Just to clarify, I took this to mean keeping the blade 30 degrees ( or two spines width) from the face, but slanting the blade as it cut.
    The stroke direction remains the same, but the heel is lower than the toe. Hope that makes sense.
    I'd like it known that i am not yet crazy enough to shave with a razor at 90 degrees to my face! (Well, maybe when i start the stroke right under my nose)

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