Thread: Oh for pete's sake. Help.

One thing to remember is that oil ain't oil. Well, it is, but all oil ain't rust preventive oil. Probably all of the vegetable/organic oils will oxidize over time and become hard or sticky. These are the oils that one should avoid using to coat metalic devices such ar razors. Among these are cooking oils, linseed oil, etc.

The type of oil to use is an inorganic, mineral oil such as... mineral oil from the drugstore, or motor oil, or 3 in 1, or a rust preventive compound such as those sold to shooters for firearms. However some of them may also have hardeners in them and may put a difficult to remove coating on the blade. For long term storage it might be just fine, but for those who like to annoint their razors between uses, it may shoot the bees in their knees, so to speak.

I know that many of our shaving/razor experts like camellia oil, but it too is a vegetable oil that's even used for cooking in the Orient. It is among the oils used on Samurai swords and thus thought to be good for use on razors. And so it is if the razor is treated like a sword and taken out of its sheath frequently so that old oils can be wiped off and new oils applied.

One of the best things for a razor is to be put away with all surfaces completely, totally dry.

Also, WINDEX. Very good idea.. I had completely forgotten about that... when I first tried a Barber's hone, I used sharpie on the edge of my GD and couldn't get the excess off afterwards (It looked like when a 6 year old tries on mommy's lipstick... smeared everywhere) and all I had in the dorm was windex... Sprayed it on a paper towel, rubbed lightly, SUCCESS.

Windex is a great suggestion.

As for slick/cushiony creams, TOBS makes sweet lather but isn't moisturising too much, Trumpers is excellent in both catagories but I prefer their soaps... However TGQ (The Gentleman's Quarter) creams, if you can lather them right, have given me ASTOUNDINGLY slick lather... It doesn't moisturize me too well, but the lather was top knotch ALL. THE. WAY.

Also, I don't really give too much care about moisture... if it's there, that's a plus, but if it's not, I always have a Bottle of Nivea Replenishing post shave balm... It moisturizes, leaves no residue, and kills even the most wicked razorburn/heat... I love the stuff.

So, I reccommend shopping around with creams and, if you like them, get some Nivea for Men Post shave balm. It really works great. I prefer the Replenishing one to the Moisturizing.

And it's like 6 bucks a bottle. College budget friendly for me

Originally Posted by ursus

Well, do note that vinegar is acidic and sometimes used to induce patina (read: corrosion) to razors. Use with caution if you decide going that way.

Ursus, actually, vinegar, apple cider vinegar at least, is basic, that's why it is slippery and why naturalists will tell you to use a tablespoon of it to combat acid reflux.

Just thought I'd clear that misconception up for every one. Vinegar is not an acid, it is a base.

Cassie, and let us know what works.

WD-40 is named that because the WD means it is a water displacement. Sprayed into a lock for instance that is wet, it will displace the water and lubricate the insides. The 40 stands for the number of times the company tried to get it right. It is a good lubricant but has its drawbacks. It dries out and is not good for long term use. I have used it many times to remove sticky residue due to tape marks or label goo. It works good for a cleaner of parts that are greasy or have a dried sticky old grease or oil on them. I clean my metal lathe with it but follow that with sewing machine oil. I don't like 3 in 1 since it is sticky and picks up dust. Give the WD-40 a try. It should work. Mack

Cool! thanks for that Mack, I'll ahve to pick some up next time I'm home!

Cheers,
Jeremy

Originally Posted by rcardon

Ursus, actually, vinegar, apple cider vinegar at least, is basic, that's why it is slippery and why naturalists will tell you to use a tablespoon of it to combat acid reflux.

Just thought I'd clear that misconception up for every one. Vinegar is not an acid, it is a base.

Respectfully I disagree: The main ingredient is acetic acid. If you know of base-vinegars, it would be a nice trivia to know. =) Wouldn't be the first thing I would ingest for acid reflux, but that's just me. However, it might be worth a try now that I've read about it.

Properties of Vinegar
The pH of vinegar depends upon how much acid is present, but most commercial distilled white vinegars contain 5% acetic acid and have a pH of about 2.4.

WD40 works ok, but to remove real sticky stuff from metal (razor blade, for example) diesel fuel oil and kerosine work really well. I've used those to remove bunker fuel/residual fuel oil stains from the heavy ship engine centrifuges/separators and at home i use it to clean the knife blades and to remove asphalt stains and motorcycle chain wax stains. Just do not put these things into scales and remember to wash the blade after treatment with warm water and dish soap.

Vinegar is an organic acid (acetic acid). Acids are involved in the formation of caries (dental decay) by demineralizing (removing calcium from) the enamel that makes-up the outer layer of the tooth. Acids such as acetic, lactic, proprionic, and butyric acids are produced in varying proportions by bacteria living in the dental plaque when they metabolize sugars. A more detailed description can be found in Ernest Newbrun , "Cariology" 2nd. Ed., Williams and Wilkens, 1983.


This is why I would never drink vinegar.

I guess I stand corrected.
But I do know that when my father-in-law's acid reflux medication runs out, if he can't get to the store for a refill within a day, he uses apple cider vinegar to control it, and, he says, it works almost as well as the medication.

Carberator cleaner.
If you don't want to try that then try some good tire white wall cleaner - Westley's Bleche-Wite.
Either should eat it off real quick.