Thread: Half-Hollow vs Full-Hollow

i have a dense beard and shaving has always been a pain. Even with disposable razors, i managed to end with nicks. My doctor recommended the use of a braun electric shaver , but even with the Braun, i would get burning sensation (but no nick ;-)). However , i missed the feel of a manual shave.

I decided to try safety shavings two years ago. I read about shaving techniques and discovered straight razors. I looked for a straight razor here and the razor place i bought it from only carried one model. The rep. suggested i buy a Shavette to see if i could learn and i would like it before spending the money for a more expensive model.

I did just that. I have since tried to use the Shavette for the easy areas , complementing with the safety razors for the chin (where this is more difficult) . But because of the nicks i get, i alternate between the electric shaver and the shavette until the skin can tolerate the blade.

I am now getting better with the shavette. I noticed that it is when i change the blade that i get a lot of nicks. I have discovered this forum while searching for advice on the technique. I now know that i was not making a good prep. I also used Gillette gel for sensitive skin (in a can). Now , i think this may be part of the problem. I have bought a shaving soap and a brush and will try this later this week when the nicks are gone.

I have read somewhere that shavette may be harder and more prone to nicks because of the blade that is so sharp or whatever. Now, i am wondering if a real straight razor would help or make any difference. I have looked at the classified and most razors are full hollow. Very few to choose from when it comes to 1/2 hollow. I did not find a good description of full hollow vs half hollow and the difference it makes to have a 5/8 vs 6/8. My Shavette looks like a 5/8, but i did not really measure, i will do that.

I went to the SRP site and i did not find a single half hollow razor - or maybe i did not search properly (no search criteria for grind on that site). Can someone explain why the beginners guide of this site recommends a 1/2 hollow, 6/8 razor ? I read somewhere that someone who has a dense beard may be better off with a 1/4 hollow or 1/2 hollow vs a full hollow. Is this true?

Can someone help me with these questions. My wife wants me to forget about straight razor because of the nicks. She believes i should continue using electric shaver since i do not get these bruises. My father and her father used electric shavers because they could not tolerate razors... I did not find any good stores around here that can help me decide.

thank you

First of all, welcome! You're in the right place to get your questions answered.

A Shavette and a straight razor are very different beasts, and the technique of using them is different as well. As you say, the blades are very sharp and the teflon coating can give them that "over-sharp" feeling that some people dont like.

Some people here have actually said that they prefer their shavette after a few uses once the blade has dulled a bit..!

I love straight razor shaving, so I'm biased, but I would say give one a try. They are very different to shavettes, and I definately prefer them!

In terms of the "half-hollow, half ground, 6/8, round point" recommendation, its just that; A recommendation. You dont have to start with a blade like that.

The reason that recommendation was given is because those measurements are totally middle of the road halfway on the scale, and this gives people the option to decide on a heavier or thinner grind, and a different point or width.

I have a tough beard as well, and I started with a DOVO Black Star 5/8" full hollow round point. Other guys here have started with a smiling 7/8 Wade and Butcher wedge with a square point. The main thing is that the razor is shave ready and stropped correctly and that you have good face prep and shaving technique.

I have razors from full hollow to full wedge going from 4/8 to 15/16, and I dont notice any difference in the shave between them. They are different to handle of course, but the shave is just as easy and just as close with all of them.

IME, you dont need a half hollow or wedge for a tough beard, just that the razor is sharp and your technique is good.

Good luck and keep us posted!

I started with a Shavette and two other disposable straight razors. Many of my nicks were because of a poor face prep or bad technique. They would close up due to a cold water rinse after the shave. You need to know your face and know what areas can handle ATG passes and which whats can not.

Straight razors offer more forgiveness when they shave and you can dial in on how sharp you want them for every shave that fits your comfort zone. Overall, the straight razors are more refined than disposable straights.

I do enjoy using my disposables when I travel or just want to blow off stropping that day. As your technique gets better, you avoid small cuts and weepers. Given your history, read up on the SRP Wiki and take it slow.

Good Luck,

Pabster

Welcome to SRP. The difference in the grind is in the stiffness of the blade since a full hollow is thinner than the 1/2 hollow. If you're getting a shave ready razor either one will do the job and if it isn't shave ready neither one will be adequate. Your shaving technique, good preparation, lathering, skin stretching all contribute to the end results and to whether it is a comfortable shave. There is a learning curve and initially it may be a bit of a hassle but if your are patient and persistent you'll get there and be glad you did. Whether it is one grind or the other is not as important IME since either will get the job done. See the links below for helpful info.

I believe the Dovo Best Quality 6/8 is a half-hollow razor although there seems to be conflicting information out there on some store sites.

You've gotten good advice here so I won't rehash it all. I'll just say to buy whatever strikes your fancy and become competent with it. The notion you have to match a blade with a beard type is just an old shaving tale.

having razors from 3/8 to 9/8 from extra full hollow to wedge i have to agree with the advice above, razors tend to be razors all if they are sharp will slice thru my barbwire chin wiskers like they wernt there. good prep shower lots of water on the face and a bit of hair conditioner rubbed into the beard work wonders.i cut myself a lot with the shavette and i think its a combo of the short blade lenth and the sharp corners, straights even spike point straights tend to be more forgiving.all in all it takes a bit of time to get it all down, face prep , stropping ,lather making exc. is it worth the effort?for someone like you i think its the best option. its going to be easyer on your face and give you a shave like no other. keep at it. it took me abought 3 months to make the changeover

Welcome to the Straight Razor Place!

Many years ago when I was using a Gillette double edge razor with Platinum Plus blades, I tried Williams shaving soap with a cheap $5.00 brush I found in a drugstore. It improved my comfort when I shaved so much that I never looked back. Since then I've only used foam-in-a-can when traveling and that's just because I can't fit my mug & brush into my itty-bitty shaving kit. (Now that I'm using a straight razor since February, that might change.)

A "real" straight razor will give you an entirely different shave as opposed to a shavette, the same way a Gillette double edge will give you a different shave than a Gillette Sensor, which will be different still from the shave you would get from a Mach 3.

Shavettes, it seems to me, were invented for practicality and convenience. Hairstylists would be able to give a client a "razor cut" trim without making the investment of a couple of quality straight razors, several hones and the investment of time to learn how to use the hones properly. They could also avoid sending their razors out to be honed by a sharpening service. The stylist would be able to focus on just giving their client a good hair style. Maintenance is cheap: slide in a new half blade every few heads they cut.

Regardless of the path most straight razor users follow to get where we are, staying with straight razors seems to involve a bit of romance. I'm talking about either the romance of a hobby or the romance of an art. As I read the posts, that's what I see here. Some SRP members are hobbyists, others raise their ritual to an art form. The path we follow is all a part of how we define ourselves.

My own love affair with straight razors most likely began 52 years ago when I was five years old. My father brought me to his barber for my first real haircut. I didn't really understand what was going on but I thought it was so cool the way he could drag his "really sharp knife" down the back of my neck without cutting me. For many, many years, the barbershop was the only place I'd ever see a straight razor.

As has already been mentioned, the type of razor recommended for someone new to straight razors is simply the middle of the road of the variety of styles that have been manufactured. Don't think that you should limit yourself to that for a start. Consider width, point and affordability of a "shave ready" razor. 5/8 to 6/8 is a good width to start with. A first time shaver may be less prone to nick themselves with a round point as opposed to a spike point. But "shave readiness" is the most important aspect of a first straight razor.

After buying a couple of different styles of straight razors, I found that I prefer a hefty blade with a "barber's notch" and a "smile" shape. It does not give me a better shave than my little 4/8 half hollow square point nor my 5/8 hollow round point. The reason is an intangible, really. It's the same as why I love everything Claude Monet painted more than any other artist, even though there have been countless talented artists all through history. There's just something about a hefty barber's notch blade with a smile that makes me feel good about myself when I shave. Simple as that.

Have a look at this: Straight Razors

About a hundred years ago, Robeson's marketing department put out a booklet that told men that *their* razors were made to "fit your face." Their booklet divided men into a few groups based on differences like an accountant who worked indoors or a farmer who worked outside in the sun. Then Robeson went on to recommend a spike point or a round point or a wedge grind or full hollow, half hollow, etc. It doesn't take much to see that it was all marketing hype. Robeson obviously figured there was some number of men who wanted to be TOLD what style of razor was "best" for them and their marketing department set out to sell those guys a Robeson Shure Edge razor.

What should be most important to you is that the razor you buy is "shave ready" so you don't become discouraged from using a razor that gives you a shave far inferior to what the shavette provides. There is an Art of Shaving store near me that sells Dovo razors direct from the factory. These Dovos are advertised as "shave ready" but they are not. They still need finish honing done by a person skilled in the art of honing straight razors. Others in these forums have explained in detail why straight-from-the-factory razors aren't shave ready even though they are advertised as such so I won't get into it here.

Straight Razor Designs is owned by two of the top honemeisters around so if you want a brand new razor, you can't go wrong purchasing from them because they hone every razor they sell (with no additional charge for honing). I believe they also offer a second honing for free (when the razor eventually needs it).

For the best deal, pick an affordable razor from the Classifieds here that is advertised as "shave ready." The sellers are members of SRP so they have an incentive to stand behind their work. You won't be disappointed, regardless of what grind, width or point you purchase.

And above all, consider whether your overriding goal is just to have a good shave with zero irritation or whether you might become a hobbyist or an artist in your daily shaving ritual. There is a learning curve that varies from individual to individual. The only folks who get quick results are those blessed with very soft facial hair that grows all in one direction (down or straight out from the skin) and very uncomplicated facial structure. If you're willing to commit a few to several months to learning how to use a straight razor properly, I believe you may be pleasantly surprised.

Or you may find out that you prefer a shavette after all. No one can say but you and you won't know before than.

Good luck whichever path you choose and be certain and let us know how you're getting on.
Namaste,
Morty -_-

Thank you all for all the great information. From the responses i got, i can see that there is hope. Glad to read that i am not alone having issues with new blades on my Shavette. I almost gave up on SR. I am glad i posted this question.

I am determined to take the time it takes to master the skills necessary to shave with SR. From all the responses, i understand that the razor i choose is not that important. I translate what you all said that there may be a difference in the feeling i would get from choosing one razor over another one, but the ultimate results will be the same - that is: a nice shave.

I am not sure what i will buy. Most probably a 5/8 or perhaps a 6/8, round point for sure. I am less concerned now between a full hollow (fh) vs half-hollow (hh). Perhaps i will acquire one (fh) and get the second (hh) later.

Again,
Thank you all

Welcome to the site! Don't disregard the straight razor!

As for your coarse beard and prep, I will be able to give you the name of a product tomorrow that works very well for people with coarse/heavy beards. I would tell you now, but honestly, I forget the name. It's a product we have at Barber school and a fellow student purchased a tub of it and tried it on his son's touch beard and said it worked wonders.

I will be sure to post the name of the product when I get home tomorrow evening!