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Thread: Rust
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07-08-2010, 12:38 AM #1
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- Jun 2010
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- Moorhead, MN, USA
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- 17
Thanked: 2Rust
To my horror the day after my first straight razor shave I noticed small red rust spots on my blade, I was positive the blade was dry and kept out of a humid spot, I hadn't purchased any mineral oil yet but i didn't think it could happen so soon. Could use something like Brasso on my blade, it says it's ok for brass, copper, stainless, chrome, aluminum, pewter, bronze; but it says not for use on silver, lacquered, painted or antiqued-finished surfaces. I looked up the msds (material safety data sheet) for it and all it contains is petroleum products, silica, a type of clay, oleic acid, and ammonia
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07-08-2010, 12:42 AM #2
If you have any baby oil use that. It works just as good
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07-08-2010, 12:47 AM #3
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- Jun 2010
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- Moorhead, MN, USA
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- 17
Thanked: 2well i have mineral oil now to help protect the blade, I would like to get the rust that's on it to go away
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07-08-2010, 03:41 AM #4
If you have a Harley shop in town, you can pick up a tube of Simichrome and that will get that rust off. If you don't, then try the local auto supply and get some metal polish. Either way, get that stuff off soon before it pits your blade.
Oh, and keep that blade oiled...
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07-08-2010, 04:02 AM #5
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- Sep 2009
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- SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
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Thanked: 1936After you dry the blade, strop it 10-20 strokes both sides to remove the micro-crud & ensure the blade edge is dry...then oil. If you don't post shave strop, you will notice your edge will deteriorate much quicker.
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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07-08-2010, 06:50 AM #6
slyfox6480,
After drying and stropping my razor, I like to leave it open, in the air for about an hour before coating the blade with preservative.
If you get the blade nice and hot (with a hot water rinse) before drying and stropping, all residual moisture should have evaporated by the time you apply the oil.
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
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07-08-2010, 01:26 PM #7
+1 on stropping following the shave. I follow that with a wipe down with a silicone gun cloth. For the rust spot you already found once you remove the active rust you will have a spot of darker metal unless it is polished out with a buffer. If there is any pitting under it that would need to be sanded and it can be a can of worms. Best to hit it with the fore mentioned metal polish and live with it as is.
Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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07-08-2010, 01:50 PM #8
I have never oiled any of my blades post shave. I follow the same routine when I am done. I rinse with hot water, followed by a thorough wipe with a towel, followed by a thorough wipe with tissue, followed by 10 seconds under a heater, followed by 10 laps linen and 10 laps leather.
I have not noticed any spots anywhere on any of my blades. Am I playing with fire here? Is it really necessary to oil after each use to avoid rust?
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07-08-2010, 02:11 PM #9
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- Jun 2010
- Location
- Moorhead, MN, USA
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- 17
Thanked: 2It's not the actual blade edge that has rust but the face where the logo is and all that, I do use oil after, and I use hot water so it dries then wipe. I'm good with the prevention now. What i really need to know is if Brasso would work as my rust remover, it is a metal polish, it "cleans and polishes"
here's a link Brasso - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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07-08-2010, 04:37 PM #10
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
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- 284
Thanked: 74I have read that a simple pencil eraser works well for getting rid of light water spots. You could maybe give this a try. This might work well for getting into the tight spots around goldwash or etches.
Here is a link to some tips:
http://www.wetshavingworld.com/forum...ghlight=eraserLast edited by altshaver; 07-08-2010 at 04:40 PM.