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  1. #1
    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    Default Straight Razor Unique Prep

    Good quality preparation is not unique to a straight razor, but, there is some unique prep discussed in straight razor documentation that you should be aware of.

    First, the "Hot Towel". The hot towel treatment was usually applied both before and after the application of the first lather. The second application was designed to infuse the lather into the whisker. The first, often with a little soap added, cleaned off the dirt and excess oil in order to allow the lather to infuse into the whisker.

    It's interesting that most "hot towel" reflections in shaving documentation describe this important step being used to bring out the skin's oil for lubrication. Not necessarily as just soaking the beard.

    So, barbers would apply a towel to wash off the dirt and oils, then add lather to be infused, add another towel and let that towel bring out the skin oil to improve the shave quality through better lubrication.

    So the prep from a traditional barber might be something like:

    1) Apply hot towel, wait 1-2 minutes
    2) Apply soap with brush
    3) Apply second hot towel
    3) Remove towel, rubbing face with towel to clean face of dirt and oils
    4) Apply third hot towel, wait 1-2 minutes bringing new oil up from skin
    5) Remove towel
    6) Apply lather or soap with brush
    7) Wait for lather to soak, and rub lather into beard for about 1 minute
    7) Re-lather on top of the rubbed lather
    8) Shave

    For us DIY guys there is the old standby of stropping as the lather soaks into the beard.

    So, it would seem that allowing the lather to soak into the beard is an important prep step. Not just wetting the beard, but letting the lather specifically infuse into the beard.

    I personally, use two latherings and I wash my face in the shower with soap. The first lathering I leave on the face for about 1 minute. I sometimes rub this lather into the beard. Then I lather again, directly on top of the first lathering. I don't use a towel, but have heard good things about it. But, I find that keeping the old barbering concepts in mind can help out a bit.

    I have to admit that hot water seems to help. I put hot lather into the bowl if I'm using one, into the soap, and I let the brush soak in hot water too. Those with sensative skin though, although few and far between, prefer warm or even cool water.

    Given good prep you'd think, and given the years I've been shaving with a straight, that I wouldn't suffer the typical beginner issue of having those "stray" whiskers on my upper and lower lip. Well I do. Oddly enough what works best for me is to dry the face a bit and then use the straight dry over those areas, very, very gently. It's amazing how well that works. Be careful though, it's easy to nick yourself like this. Once the lube of the cream is gone the blade catches all those stray hairs like gangbusters.

    Finally, in between the sort of dry pass and the full prep infusion, I should put in a word for the water only pass. This is still something I do that I find really helps with attaining near BBS shaves. Another unique straight prep concept you might want in your bag o' tricks. Naturally, this pass fits well smack dab in the middle of these two passes.

    So for me it's full on prep with some face washing, then lather rubbing, a lathering on top of the first lather, first pass, water only pass lightly in a few areas missed, and finally a dry pass only to catch a few missed hairs. You know those pesky "I should clean those up with a DE" hairs. Those dissapear with the "dry" (lather removed, face rubbed with a towel) pass.

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to AFDavis11 For This Useful Post:

    diyguy (03-09-2011), mesker (03-09-2011), ReardenSteel (03-09-2011), Shoki (03-09-2011), WillN (03-09-2011)

  3. #2
    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    AFDavis11,

    These posts that you have been putting up in the Beginners section are absolutely spectacular. They are good reads, well written, and succinct. I find myself constantly perusing the beginners section again these days, many times to read posts and help others with their newfound skills, but also to see if you've posted any new threads and musings.

    Thank you very much for these, they are enjoyable and valuable. Keep them coming!

    Maxi

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Maxi For This Useful Post:

    AFDavis11 (03-08-2011)

  5. #3
    Well Shaved Gentleman... jhenry's Avatar
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    +1 on Maxi's comments. This is excellent advice. Quality wet shaving, like painting, requires good preparation. It is part of the routine that has gotten lost in the hustle and bustle of modern life.

    Your post reminds us that its a good idea to slow down and prepare the face for a first class shave.
    "Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." Mark Twain

  6. #4
    Sharp as a spoon. ReardenSteel's Avatar
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    Thanks again for another well written and informative thread AFDavis11. I find myself every once in awhile checking the "Beginners" forum and I am constantly amazed at how helpful the members are here in helping new members get a successful start by giving great advice that only comes from years of expericence. Thank-you.

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