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  1. #11
    Senior Member USNA92's Avatar
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    SEC,

    Welcome. I've only been doing this for a few months, but it is worth it!

    I only have a boar brush that I bought at Brook's Pharmacy. I like it. I think it's a good brush to start with because it's cheap, so if you don't like using it you're not out too much. (That being said, I'm ready to try a super badger and have one on my wish list for my birthday!!). Tony likes the boars, and a lot of members use both, so I think it's a matter of personal preference.

    As far as cutting yourself; most of the guys I know that cut themselves with safety razors are shaving like they have one microsecond to finish or they'll explode! That thing is moving around their face so fast it's a blur. When you get a straight, or a double-edge (a lot of guys here use DE's as well) remember that it's all about taking your time and enjoying the shave.

    One last thing, Gary (gfoster) and Ed (EdinLA44) mentioned the term "shave-ready". That's key! A brand new straight from Classic Shaving may be sharp, but won't necessarily be "shave-ready". If you get a new one from there, use their sharpening service. They'll send it to Lynn (the creator of this site, in case you don't know) and he'll hook you up. OR as mentioned before, Tony or Bill or pretty much anyone else you get a razor from in these forums will be able to get it to you shave-ready.

    Good luck and enjoy!

  2. #12
    Senior Member sensei_kyle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sec162
    I am leaning towards one of Tonys Kits at this time. What do you all recommend, the hanging strop or the paddle? And I see his kits have a Boars hair brush, I understood that you should only get a Badger hair brush? Or should I eventually own both, and just upgrade later if I stick with it?
    I'd go with the hanging strop for daily use. A paddle strop is typically treated with abrasives to restore an edge. The abrasive qualities typically aren't good enough to hone a razor, but they will polish an edge that's a little dull back to wicked sharp.

    Some folks like boar brushes just fine. In Lynn's shaving video he's using a boar brush in the interest of time because it creates lather a little faster. So, if the grand poo-bah here still has one they can't be all that bad. I've got a boar and a badger brush, but the badger sees the most use.

  3. #13
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    You can refine your equipment as time and money allow, or you can spend a LOT of money and buy the best right up front. If you have never shaved with a straight before and aren't sure you want to invest that much, a boar brush will work quite well and a razor that doesn't cost cost $$$ will do well, too. That is, provided it's not one of the Paki junk razors.

    Follow the advice that's given here, and you'll be shaving successfully in no time. Pay close attention to the bit about buying a SHAVE-READY razor. There are several guys on here who will sell you a really nice razor that is truly shave-ready for a very reasonable price, and if you must have a new one, there are several members who have new razors available, and they are real beauties!

    Carefull, though. It's addicting!

  4. #14
    Electric Razor Aficionado
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sec162
    mparker762, dont worry I don't think I could do much damage with those throwaways. I read/heard that once you get the technique down that when you do "cut" yourself it is more of a nick and generally stops bleeding soon. With a safety razor it tends to tear your skin and bleeds more.
    That's basically the way it has worked for me. Safety razors tend to slice off a little fish-eye when they nick you, but all my nicks with the straight have been where I put the blade to my face without moving it, and it kinda sinks in a bit. At most I get a little thin red line (no dripping or anything like that), and I just hit it with a styptic and some neosporin when I'm done. Spike points also have a tendency to nick with that pointy bit, but that same point is also great for getting into corners so it all balances out.

    Although straights aren't nearly as fearsome as they're made out to be, always remember that you can easily put yourself in the emergency room if you aren't careful. If you need to sneese, put down the razor. If you drop your razor, *don't* try to catch it. And wear pants while shaving, just in case.

  5. #15
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    I just finished shavin a few minutes ago, and I got myself with a Boker spike point.

    Danged dog tried to attack a squirrel through the closed French door just as I was making a pass down my left cheek. Needless to say, I jumped, and the spike bit me.

    I now have a little line down the left cheek about 1/2" long.

    Hmm. I guess I'll have to start putting the dog out while I shave, too.
    Last edited by canerunner; 07-19-2006 at 08:33 PM.

  6. #16
    Face nicker RichZ's Avatar
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    My worst cuts have been when I have been surprised by something. Peace and quite is key.

    You can also shave the dog that will screw with his head for a while might even learn to be quite while you shave.

  7. #17
    Super Shaver xman's Avatar
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    I think Boar brushes, being firmer in the bristle will feel less comfortable, but work better on standing up tough beards.

    I imagine you might be getting to the point where there are more questions than there were before. I say give in to the Starter Kit because it will get you shaving right away and you can decide from there what your optimum setup is. That's something nobody can tell you since each man is very unique in beard type and preference.

    X

  8. #18
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    all these guys are just a bunch of negative nancy's. it's all in how you look at it. sure, the first doozy of a cut i gave myself, i could have said, "holy crap that's a lot of blood. i wonder if i'm going to pass out?" but instead i used my positive mental attitude and said, "you know, i never did like that mole there; it made me look like cyndi crawford," and if you can't love a thing for keeping you from looking like cyndi crawford, what can you love?




    seriously, though, i just started, and all the advice here is spot on. i chose not to use a pasted paddle strop, though, and i think a lot of people disagree with that. i'll tell you what i got and what i wish i would have done differently:

    basic 5/8 dovo from classicshaving (the $65 one), unsharpened--this is the one i've been learning how to hone on.

    $5 vulfix boar brush from the same site--it works beautifully, and a few of the really big cheese types on this forum told me in confidence that they also use boar.

    a torrey 5/8 from a person on this board that was shave-ready (it only cost thirty dollars and everyone is 100% right, you really do need a comparison, or you'll never realize just how close they can shave)

    $ 35 hanging leather/linen strop dovo from classicshaving which didn't require any prep and is awesome.

    -------------------------------------

    that's all the stuff you need to get started. in addition, i bought a norton 4k/8k stone because you sort of have to hone it on something eventually. i think it was $65.

    i ordered a swaty from ebay for way too much money, and the only reason i bought it was to have a travel hone of sorts. most people use them as a finishing hone, but i've also been told by some big cheeses that you can get all your honing from a norton4/8. i'm sure some people will disagree, though. someone disagrees about almost anything here.

    i use a cereal bowl-- you don't really need a mug or scuttle; some people even use their hands.

    i only posted this to bring a different perspective. you can really spend a lot of money, but i got everything you absolutely need to start for 140 dollars, and my two stones for another hundred. chances are, if these guys are any indication, you'll buy a lot of razors eventually, but not necessarily. i've been doing this for about a month, and still have no desire to purchase anything else. people tell me that will change but i will be very surprised if they are right.

    have fun. all the people on this site are really decent people who would sooner club a baby seal than take advantage of you, so don't ever feel anxious about buying from them.


    on a final note: i would never advise you not to be careful because i really did pretty much remove a mole from my face in a moment of carelessness, but really, it's not as scary as normal folks think. that's the only cut i've ever gotten that bled for more than a few seconds, and other than that, i just use care and common sense and i come out on top every time.

    hope i didn't step on any toes, and if i'm wrong, please feel free to correct me.
    Last edited by cyrano138; 07-20-2006 at 06:46 AM.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Sec162's Avatar
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    Thanks again for all the wonderful advice/expierence so far. Knowing what someone else did and wish they had done really helps those of us avoid the same mistakes.

    I was wondering if the 6/8 in the kit would be too big for a first razor? I understand that the larger it is the eaiser it is to control, but harder to get into smaller spaces. I was thinking a 5/8 would be better, or is the difference so small that I should not loose sleep over it

  10. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth JLStorm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sec162
    Thanks again for all the wonderful advice/expierence so far. Knowing what someone else did and wish they had done really helps those of us avoid the same mistakes.

    I was wondering if the 6/8 in the kit would be too big for a first razor? I understand that the larger it is the eaiser it is to control, but harder to get into smaller spaces. I was thinking a 5/8 would be better, or is the difference so small that I should not loose sleep over it
    the only difference between a 4/8 or and 8/8 in my opinion is how agile you have to be. If you have a goatie or mustache, etc I wouldnt start with a 6/8. If you shave your whole face the only difference in my opinion between a 5/8 and a 6/8 is your opinion. For instance about now I will only tough an 8/8...can't tell ya why...I just like the shave better.

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