Thread: First post, first straight razor shave. One question.

Hello folks,

I decided a little while ago to try straight razor shaving, and started lurking here for a bit, reading the forums. Such a wealth of information here- it's extremely helpful!

I've been wet shaving with a double-edged Gillete for years, using a cheap boar-bristle brush and Williams shaving soap. Thanks to some of the articles and posts here, I switched to a badger hair brush and some Taylor of Old Bond Street sandalwood shaving cream. What a great difference that made. I love the way this stuff lathers up, and watching some videos (in particular, Mantic59's videos on YouTube) really helped me learn how to build a good lather.

I picked up a simple ceramic bowl at the thrift store for 99 cents. I don't know what it was used for originally, but it makes a great shaving bowl. I let it sit in the hot water while I shower, with my brush soaking in it, and it holds enough residual heat to give the shaving foam a nice warm feel.

I already owned a couple of straight razors- gifts from a friend from years ago. They weren't in the greatest shape, but I figured I could make them servicable. One is a 72 Fromm Special, and the other is a #8 J.A. Henckels. They had just been sitting in a drawer for years.

While I'd never honed a razor before, I'm very much a "learn to do it yourself" kind of fellow, and I thought it would be a useful skill to learn. I know most folks don't suggest a beginner start by honing, but I like to learn new skills and tend to jump in wholeheartedly to these kinds of things.

I read lots of posts and articles on honing techniques, as well as watching lots of videos here and on YouTube.

I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on a really expensive hone- I ended up getting a dual 1000/6000 double sided Japanese water stone made by "Woodstock" and sold through Grizzly. The instructions suggest soaking it for 5-8 minutes underwater before using. I did so, and added water to the top as well just before honing.

Before I started I noted that one of the two razors (the Fromm) was visibly dull- I could feel the flat edge along the blade. On that one I started with a few passes on a regular old Smith's brand sharpening stone, then worked it a bit with a Hard Arkansas stone. This will probably never be needed on this razor again, but to get it in a state to where I could actually start honing it worked well.

(I should probably mention that I've done a lot of blade sharpening before- never a straight razor, but I've sharpened a lot of knives, including some I've forged myself. )

Once I was confident that both razors were ready to start honing, I used the 1000 grit stone on both razors, then moved to the 6000 grit stone. That was the smoothest stone I had, so I went to the strop after that. (I had purchased a Fromm strop as well.) I did around 50 strokes on the canvas side and 20 on the leather. At that point, both razors would easily shave hair off the back of my arm, which I took to be a good sign. The thumb pad test gave me confidence in the sharpness as well.

My first straight razor shave went very well. I made sure to use lots of warm shaving foam, and shaved after a hot shower. When all was said and done, I had a little light razor burn on my neck and jawline, but it was a closer shave than I'd been getting with my safety razor, and no nicks. Very relaxing and a nice start to the day!

One question to start with though (I'm sure I'll have others.) I also bought a "Barber's Choice" hone (because I got it quite cheaply). It arrived today. I think I read somewhere on the site that these hones are extremely fine and designed for touch-up use- rougher than stropping but finer than the 6000 grit stone. The instructions with it indicate to use it with lather on the stone.

Would you suggest I hone on this stone before my next shave to get the razors even sharper, or just follow the old adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"? My initial inclination is to try it on just one of the two razors and compare the results to the other.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
--TMIB

Welcome to SRP, and congrats on your advances. It sounds like you have learned a lot already.

As you probably know, barber's hones were made so that barbers could quickly rehone an edge when it started to go south, perhaps inbetween customers when his shop was full of customers.

It is unusual to shave off a 6k edge. Without knowing your barbers hone, my guess is that it is finer than that. I'd propose giving it 5-6 light strokes, changes are it would improve your experience.

Best of luck, and let us know how it goes.

Would you suggest I hone on this stone before my next shave to get the razors even sharper, or just follow the old adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"? My initial inclination is to try it on just one of the two razors and compare the results to the other.

You can't beat a "controlled experiment" for giving reliable information. Leave one razor "as is", hone the other.

6K is pretty coarse. Either a barber hone, or a pasted strop, would probably improve the edge.

Charles

Hi TMIB, and welcome to SRP!

I agree that you are able to shave off 6K, but it will not be a comfortable experience... I would really suggest what is called a "Chinese 12K" stone (approximately 12K) that you can buy from Woodcraft on this link: Natural Polishing Water Stone - Woodcraft.com

It will be the perfect finisher for you.

Another alternative is to make yourself a table-top stropping hone with removable pads like the one I've posted about in this thread : http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-few-days.html

Whatever you decide on, you really need to try and get that edge smoother than the 6K level, you will really like it if you do!

Enjoy & good luck!

Congratulations on doing your homework first! Looks like it paid off.

I would also recommend using the Barber's hone on one razor and comparing the results to the edge of the "control" razor. The result will tell you something. You can use the Barber's hone with lather.

Hone away. Remember that barber hones are very different than modern hones.

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

Hone away. Remember that barber hones are very different than modern hones.

Pray tell, how are they different? I don't doubt it if you say so, but I'm not clear on the difference. I have three of the darn
things and have yet to use them because I have high-grit finishing stones that I've used instead. If I give them a try, what
should I expect as opposed to a 12K or 16K?

I tried my own ebay Keen Kutter barber's hone, and mine appears to give a finish similar to around 7-8K, in my own opinion...

My C12K, or Naniwa 12K gives me far superior edges over my little barber's hone.

If you're getting razor burn, it's either your honing, your prep, or your shaving. A very light touch is needed for a straight shave. The edge should lightly glide over the skin with only enough pressure to keep the edge touching your skin, then do it more lightly!

Even though you think it ain't broke, the barber hone will improve your edge over a 6k honing. Just do 5 or 6 perfect strokes on a very dilute lathered surface of the barber hone, then strop, and shave. Repeat this as needed whenever you suspect the edge is not sharp enough or is not shaving as well as it used to.

Despite your independent spirit, if you ever decide you'd like to try a honing by someone else, I will gladly hone one of yours for the price of return postage. I won't hold my breath for your PM but the offer remains if you want it.

Thanks for all the great advice. Utopian, I'll take you up on that offer- it will be good to eliminate one variable. I'll send you a PM shortly!

I went ahead and used the "Barber's Choice" hone on my Fromm. No idea what grit it is, or even what material. It reminds me a bit of Catlinite (pipestone), which I've shaped before. I think perhaps I over-honed a bit, (about 40 strokes), because while the razor could still shave my arm after honing on it, the edge didn't feel quite as sharp on my thumb pad. I went ahead and did 50 strokes on the linen strop and 50 on the leather. *then* it felt really sharp. I shaved with it this morning, and had no razor burn.

I will go ahead and order that 12k waterstone that leadingedge linked. I think that will be a good next step after the 6k hone, and I'll just use this barber's hone for some light touch ups from time to time. (now that I'm reading more about them, it seems about 5 strokes is normally all that's done on them, as Utopian mentions.)

Thanks!

--TMIB