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Thread: Newb needs some opinions
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03-01-2012, 04:09 AM #11
I dont think you need to send it out.... I would just go to the auto parts store and get some 600 , 800, 1000, 2000 grit sand paper and just rub that one little spot.. If i5 is pitted under neath then you might be above your head.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Wintchase For This Useful Post:
ajwinger (03-01-2012)
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03-01-2012, 03:59 PM #12
thank you i will give the sand paper a try and see what i come out with. I only paid $7 for the razor so i won't be at a real loss except i really like the look of it.
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03-02-2012, 01:24 AM #13
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Location
- Virginia Beach, Virginia, United States
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- 36
Thanked: 1Home Page <- This is what I would try. But I am new here so if there is opposition to this, please someone correct me.
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03-02-2012, 01:33 AM #14
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Location
- Boise, Idaho
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- 334
Thanked: 57I wouldn't use sandpaper yet. Try steel wool first and then Simichrome. Be careful not to rub the gold wash because it comes off very easily. Even if some rust staining remains, use it for awhile before doing anything more. Your hands will work off some of the rust staining just by use and handling. Then after a time, then decide if you want to go stronger.
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03-02-2012, 10:32 PM #15
Dear friend. it would have helped if you posted some pics but in any case: get yourself some autosol polish and use a tiny amount on both sides of the blade. then use a clean piece of cotton paper to rub the polish vigorously on the razor. this will give a beautiful shine to your razor and the polish will protect the blade too. but make sure that you don't put any polish on the bevel or edge because in that case you will need to touch up the edge (won't be shave ready anymore)
I hope that helps.
Dan From Iran
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03-03-2012, 03:11 AM #16
I suggested not using metal polish because of the goldwash.
I also suggested NOT handsanding because the filarmonicas I have seen HAVE grind marks.The last thing you want is a razor with factory grinding 3/4 across the blade and a hand sanded section.
Im no resto-pro but I am sure one of our pros could match the factory grind at the edge pretty easy with an appropriate grit belt.
That is a fairly rare razor, please dont touch it
Maybe someone else can chime in on the grinding, now im curious.
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03-03-2012, 03:37 AM #17
Is it just me or does anyone else doubt that this razor is Shave Ready??
Have you honed the razor or sent it out to be honed?? If not I would take a look at the member services section and send it out to be honed AND cleaned. If you got it for $7 I would say the additional $20-50 (guess on price dont quote me) for a truly shave ready razor AND a cleaning would be WELL worth it JMHO! great find either way!
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03-03-2012, 06:06 AM #18
In my humble opinion you got that razor for a steal and its worth a heck of alot more.
With that being said it's your razor and you can do what you want with it. I'm not sure of your skills and that's not to be offensive, so please don't take it that way. But if your going to do it yourself, you need to loosen the rust with minimal disturbance to the blade and I would try and get it loosened first with putting mineral oil on the spot and see how deep the rust is first.
I just finished restoring one that had the same rusting on the spine & tang of the razor over makers marks and was able to do it without loosing the stamps or even the depth of the stamps. The tool I use is a foot controlled jewelers rotory tool with a very supple wool wheel with 2.5 micron diamond paste. If you don't have that available. you could take a paint stick and wrap 1000 or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper around the stick and hold in place with rubber bands, and gently work the area with the aid of water. It will take sometime but will be less scratch removal in the end, but even then I'm hesitant to say your going to match the look of the rest of the blade without taking it to a buffing wheel or using a buffing wheel on a rotary tool. I would recommend if you've never done this before to get a beater blade off ebay or from a flea market and try it first if you've never done it. That razor is worth alot more than you paid for it so way all of your options first. And please don't disturb the gold etching you'll kill the value of that razor.
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03-03-2012, 06:44 PM #19
thank you everyone for your opinions, they were all very helpful. I ended up putting mineral oil on the rusty part for a bit then i took 0000 super fine steel wool to the rusty part. It cleaned up the rust quite a bit but you can see that there is some pitting underneath. I localized all work on it to just the rusty area so the etching/gold was untouched. I don't plan on doing anything more with it at the moment though until i become more knowledgeable about straight razors, then i'll either use it or sell it.
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03-04-2012, 01:36 AM #20
Thanks for the update and enjoy it. It is a beautiful razor and with the active rust that was on it, I was afraid there would be pitting. At least it wasn't on the edge. For now just keep it oiled until you decide what you want to do with it. Myself, I would have to hone it and shave with it at least once.