Thread: Beginners Tips: May 2012

Originally Posted by Jimbo

There is a time and place for practicing the parts, but there is also a time and place for putting them together - I think the two approaches feedback to each other, much as a Pianist might practice a scale which then improves the performance of a piece of music, which in turn improves their scale and so on over time.

James.

Oooooo That was very well put my brother from Down Unda

Originally Posted by Jimbo

While I agree that minimising the variables is a good thing to do, I'd suggest that another thing to take away from Glen's post is that no matter how much experience we attain at this, we all learn new things all the time. I know I learn best from my mistakes than my successes.

And just one other comment I'd like to make: shaving is a compound exercise - it is the subtle interaction of many things working together in harmony to produce a result that, IMO, is greater than the sum of its parts. And so while I would heartily stand by Glen's (and others) admonishment to eliminate variables, I would (perhaps rather contradictorily) also encourage the conscientious practicing of "putting it all together" as well. There is a time and place for practicing the parts, but there is also a time and place for putting them together - I think the two approaches feedback to each other, much as a Pianist might practice a scale which then improves the performance of a piece of music, which in turn improves their scale and so on over time.

James.

I'm with you as long as they aren't trying to play Rach 3 before they know how to properly play a scale

r.

*edit* sorry...I just replied to this on my phone and missed that this was left open for senior people to add on to...I'm not senior by any means...I'm chopsticks.

This is such a good one glen, it took me so long to figure this out. For a few months I didn't think I could shave with a full hollow, but I kept thinking 30 degrees, When i got more confident and started adjusting my blade angle I found I simply needed to bring the spine in to make it smooth and not harsh. I needed the confidence to eliminate the other variables before really figuring out the problem.

A big thank you to Glen for mentioning using two spine widths as a starting point for correct angle of attack and varying from there. As a struggling newbie I had a much better shave this morning following that advice. By decreasing my blade angle I got a much smoother shave, less hacking and pulling. Makes sense when you come to think of it, to slice rather scrape the whiskers off.

Bob

When Glen and I discussed this topic, I thought it was really a good one and not just for beginners.

It is amazing to me the subtle differences each razor presents when trying to shave with them. It really is not just a matter of minimizing the variables, but it is just as important to recognize them. When using a disposable razor with thinner machined blades, you can get away with a little more open angle that you can't in most instances from real straight razors. Add to that the different stock thicknesses, widths of blade, the amount of wear, length of scales, how much space there is between the end of the scales there is for you to grip and even the angle that some of the razors are pinned into the scales with and you really have a lot to pay attention to. Even the length of the blades can sometimes come into play.

The most important thing for me, is to think Vertical with the blade when shaving. Even when you have been shaving as long as some of us have, it is very common to bend the wrist back when shaving different parts of the face particularly with a 6/8 or larger blade which can create pulling, scrapping, nicks and in general an uncomfortable shave regardless of how well the razor is honed. A scale that is pinned with the angle just a little off can throw your normal grip off and you have to compensate.

I would always recommend that when you are using a new razor or even one you haven't used in a while that you start out just the same as if you were brand new to shaving. Sideburn to jaw on one side of the face and short little strokes with longer clean up strokes until you get the feel for the blade and then move on.

Practice gives us the confidence to obtain a great shave with straight razors. Preparation and all the other factors that we learn to make this art so pleasurable all come into play daily and after a while, it is easy to get complacent. What we enjoy the most about shaving with a straight razor is that we are not in any race and we can take the little bit of extra time to get the most out of it. Taking the time to examine what might be different from your usual razor when using a different one will help you a lot.

Have fun.

Great tips, fellas!

If I may beg you all's indulgence, here are some of my thoughts regarding blade angle:

What helps me is to think of blade angle as a "closeness control." What I mean is, a lower angle, with the blade closer to laying flat on the skin will not cut whiskers as closely, but has the advantage of being much less likely to cause nicks or razor burn. The higher the angle, the closer the shave but at an increased risk of nicks or irritation.

It seems to me that the important angle is that with respect to the whiskers, not necessarily the skin. Shaving with the direction of growth will allow for a higher angle than going against.

I find that the feel of drag and the sound the razor makes when shaving are also useful clues to finding a good shaving angle.

I have come to believe that the most important thing to keep in mind is to use minimal pressure, striving to glide the edge just above the surface of the skin. Doing that, almost any reasonable blade angle can be used to good effect.

A strong second to the post above, RE minimal pressure. I type this out so much it makes me miss signature files: with a properly sharp blade, you don't need any more pressure to remove whiskers than you need to scrape away lather. Just aim to scrape away lather and you'll have nice, comfortable shaves... as long as your blade's in good shape. If you aim to cut whiskers you're on the path to razor burn.

About angle... from reading on this site I learned to vary the angle a little bit depending on where I'm shaving. Yes, nearly flat to begin, on the easy planes where the hairs are also a little easier to cut (sideburn to jaw). When I get to where my own barbs are sturdier, like on and under the chin, I find a higher angle gives the blade a better bite at the hair bases, so it's less likely to just slide over them without cutting. All my ATG passes, when I take the trouble for them, are at very low blade angle. That minimizes the chance that a hair, instead of being sliced, will guide the edge down into my skin. The other way to minimize that chance is to keep the blade properly sharp. When your blade gets a little too dull is when it will also start cutting your skin instead of your barbs.

Many thanks to Glen and Lynn for their great distillations of wisdom.

This is exactly why I waited a while to start using a straight razor. FOr the last 6 months I started out with a DE, and during that time experimented with a lot of different brushes, creams, soaps, etc, until I found what works for me. Now that I have those variables out of the way, I do not have to think about them anymore, so I just ordered my first straight razor. No other variables, just concentrating on how to use it/technique and experience. No messing with creams, brushes, learning how to lather, etc.

Glen-

Thank you so much for the post. I have yet to get my first straight (I need to understand more), but when I reflect and ask myself why I want a straight razor, what you described resonates with me personally as a motivator. Let me reiterate some of your points and how they resonate with a beginner to wet shaving.

1. No matter how much time and experience we have, we still must respect the process and discipline. The razor does not show preference to experience, color, race, gender, politics, money, friends, education etc..., the razor only does what the hand tells it too. It’s pure in all aspects to life. The shaver is in complete command of his/her inputs to the process and if the process fails, there is only one person to be held accountable – the shaver. We must learn to succeed.
2. Use all previous knowledge and skill to be better. There is no “reset button” or change in trend or technique. The straight will always be the straight regardless of style, brand, or material. Again, the shaver is responsible for the tool and how to apply it. We can apply it negligently, or we can apply it with respect. There is only one person responsible for these choices, the shaver.
3. The intellectual mixing of variables. For us statistics fans (lol), if we try and model straight razor shave we have to have an output variable (closeness of shave or shave with no nicks), and what are the inputs variables are to achieve that? Pre shave prep, brand of cream or soap, quality of lather, # of strops before applying razor, time of day, # of passes, # of overall stokes, hours since last shave…I think we get the point, there are factors that will always impact the quality of the shave, and again, it all falls back to the shaver to understand what the heck they are doing.
• This is a special community, I have read a lot of posts, and what I explained here is in all of us. I am not sure a person would enjoy shaving with a straight if they are not thinkers or know how to correct on a consistent basis.

4. As much as I want for the world to eliminate cartridge razors, using a straight razor isn’t for everybody. Some people have a hard time respecting the essence of a process, and to neglect the process is not acceptable in straights. DE razors should be the standard for all, but the straight is a different game, different animal. The straight commands respect, patience, time, energy and resources, etc... If the shaver is unable to execute the process, the DE is always there.

I am intrigued with pureness that the shaver dictates his/her experience and the process they apply. The challenge to learn from mistakes, how to apply those mistakes to achieve the perfect shave in ones own mind. I don’t want to take short cuts (not pun) on this process. The straight razor has value to be better in life if we choose to think about it on a deeper level than just the shave.

Great Post.

@Ghost

Well written I really hope to meet up with you in person at the Denver Meetup this year, where we can talk more over a beer or coffee