Attachment 97164
Well gents time to actually write something again after skating by last month with a review
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as many know I write these Tips each month after reading most all the posts and search for trends...
Variables:
Often times we forget just how many things have to happen for a great shave to occur, I was personally/painfully reminded of how two variables at the same time can confuse things up..
At the Yakima meet I got to mess around with two "new to me" honing stones, a unknown origin 3-5k followed by a German Faso water stone that may or may not be a Thuringen..
We got some pretty good edges that were shaved that day with great results so before the end of the meet I touched up my personal Wacker on the two stones and headed home with that razor and a plethora of new soap samples...
Well last Friday I had a chance to do a bit of testing, I took out one of the samples admittedly the Artisan's first attempt at a shaving soap, and worked up a lather... I knew the lather was lacking but I pressed on, (mistake #1) I took out the Wacker with an edge that I had never tried before (mistake #2) after letting the lather sit while I stropped in the Wacker I did my normal hot towel and re-lather then started shaving...
Did I stop??? nope like an idiot I kept going and was rewarded with a terrible shave, weepers, nicks, razor burn... So here is the the problem, because I had too many unknowns, I could not be sure what caused the bad shave, and I unlike many newbs to this hobby, can eliminate the actual shaving part of the equation, after 30+ years of this, I know how to handle a razor, and I know my face
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... I also know how to hone a razor, and strop a razor, so I eliminated those too
Now yesterday morning I went back at this with a proved lather, as that was my first suspect, and was rewarded with a close comfortable shave...
Now imagine a new guy who has to add in all the other variables that I eliminated because of experience, and there is no wonder why we tell people to take things slow and steady and work through each problem...
Another variable that is little discussed, other than these two numbers 20° and 30°
The angle of attack when presenting the razor to the skin
I have never really been that comfortable with those two numbers myself, and when pressed I usually say two spine widths as this at least gets the new guys to realize that it will differ a bit with each razor.
It is actually more complicated, or looked at another way, much simpler, depending on the size and grind of the razor that angle will vary quite a bit, so to think of it as an actual angle might not be the easiest way to describe it to newbs..
The old razor inserts have given me the best idea for it, they say "Place the razor flat against the cheek and begin to move the razor, as you move the spine away from the face, when the razor begins to cut smoothly that is the proper angle" This sounds much harder then it actually is in practice.
This is pretty much exactly what experienced shavers do every day by feel
We start the stroke and we adjust the angle to cut the smoothest by feel, I know this is hard when first starting out, but this is why the advice is to start with the flat side of the cheeks first, so you can learn the feel of the razor and how it cuts...
The more time you take learning how the razor handles, and how each stroke cuts, and then cuts more efficiently, the better your shaves will be...
As always with these posts I encourage the Senior Members to add to this thread, as we often have different points of view and they could help someone out with our Hobby...