Thread: What's in a grind?

Extra hollow or singing razors can be tough on new straight users because their very thin edge can flex and dig upon catching on hairs when not sufficiently sharp. A new straight user will often not yet have developed the feeling and razor control skills needed to avoid a nick when such razors start to catch, and may also have not yet developed the stropping skills needed to keep such a razor as sharp as it needs to be. Full or near wedge grinds are not needed to avoid this issue, but the thinnest very hollow grinds should be avoided until skills are developed. Stainless steel blades such as the vintage Henckels Friodurs are stiffer than carbon blades, but can be a bit more difficult to keep shave ready. Round points are the safest choice, but a factory muted square point, Spanish point, or other rounded point may also be OK. The type of point to shun is the spike which is a square pointed razor with its edge corner comming to a sharp 90 degree angle. This corner (point) will easily penetrate or slice any skin that it touches (don't ask how I know) such as an earlobe, nose, or curve of ones jaw or cheek so ones attention must be focused on the location of the spike point at all times. I have a spike or two, but rarely use them because I would rather focus more intently on my razor angle, pressure, skin stretching, and direction of grain. The safest choice may be a 6/8 round point because it is not too wide or heavy and the angle is easy to control. Very narrow blades less than 5/8 can be hard to control. The most popular widths are 5/8 and 6/8 and one can find more 5/8 or 6/8 vintage razors than any other widths. I shave with razors from 5/8 to 7/8 and reach for my round or Spanish point Friodurs most often because they have stiff enough grinds and are very forgiving in use. Any quality round point 5/8 or 6/8 having a stiffer hollow grind should work as well.

After reading this I'm not sure what I'm doing differently. Find that a wedge is a lot more difficult to hone than the other grinds. It may be that the wedges that I've obtained have been in poor shape, but then again most of my razors start off in bad shape.
An experiment for you to try in the future.

I have never tried a wedge, but it would seem that having to work with the entire side of the blade or tape the spine to establish an angle would be a complication. I have worked only with hollow grinds and find my shave ready razors easy to maintain through stropping on linen/latigo leather with occassional touch up by stropping on a leather bench strop pasted with 0.5 micron diamond. I give my razors 5 - 10 strokes on the diamond pasted strop when my razors start to drag a bit after using the unpasted everyday strop. I started using DMT diamonds on stainless kitchen knives years ago when I had trouble keeping stainless knives sharp using only stones and find that diamonds on a bench strop help keep my Friodurs in good shape. I was able to get a NOS Torrey to shavereadyness by stropping on 3, 1 and 0.5 micron pasted strops followed by stropping on my everyday strop. A razor needing a bevel reset or even worse, a restoration, needs a trip to the stones or perhaps, a honemeister. I started with razors bought off the classifieds from honemeisters that were shipped to me shave ready. Starting with a shave ready razor is good advise for new straight users because one can then learn what a shave ready razor feels like in use. Honing, stropping, and shaving are all skills that need development. It is difficult to try learning all three at the same time starting with e-Bay razors or antique shop razors in bad condition.

Originally Posted by mahtay

Thanks Guys,
really happy with what I've learned from this thread;

1. A thin/hollow grind seems to be for professionals with the 'feel.'

2. A round tip will save the newbie!

So if I decide to go for a half grind with a round tip, any other suggestions?

Cheers again,
mahtay

Get yourself at least 2 razors and send one out to get honed by a pro.( many on this site ). When you shave with a properly honed razor you will feel and know what SHARP IS. Then you can try to hone the other razor and see if you can get it to shave. Do you smell what Iam cooking

After awhile you will probably try various grinds and find what your preference is betwixt them. My preference has gone back and forth depending on the razor but right now it is for heavier grinds rather than full hollows. I like some of my FH razors but find I reach for the 1/2 hollow or heavier more often than not.

This is making me think. I'll have to see if I can find a wedge or near wedge to try. Looks like I'll have to start putting aside some cash.