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  1. #11
    Vlad the Impaler LX_Emergency's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike-s View Post
    Is that right? No pressure on the strop at all? It looks like people are pulling on the strop a lot from several videos I've seen, but I still see it sagging as the razor is drawn across the leather-- tells me they're putting a lot of pressure on it.
    I didn't say it can't be done. I just said you don't really NEED any pressure.

  2. #12
    Electric Razor Aficionado
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    A lot of this advice like no pressure when stropping or shaving or honing is intended for beginners, and for them it's the right advice. As you gain more experience you'll begin to figure out when it's ok to break the rules.

    But for now, no pressure when stropping. Or honing. Or shaving. And keep that strop taut.

    And that tinging sound you're hearing is a bad thing. Start flipping the razor while it's still moving, but make sure you're coming back the other way before you complete the flip or you'll nick your strop. You will likely get careless and nick your strop at least a few times before you master this, but the strop can usually be fixed.
    Last edited by mparker762; 01-17-2007 at 03:40 PM.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by AFDavis11 View Post
    Do not stop the razor on the strop, ever. Keep it in forward motion and roll it as it moves forward. It should touch down again on the strop as you begin the return movement. Use light pressure at first. You can use a touch of pressure as you learn when and why to use extra pressure. Its a sign of a dull edge.

    Please feel free to describe how you use .5 paste. If that alone dulls the razor then stop. But we can fix that too if we know more info.

    Hone suction is a good thing, its simple cohesion between a smoothing bevel and the hone grit.
    If I understand this right, I should be using fluid motion on the strop instead of a start/stop motion. I can't think of a good analogy but basically stropping should be one continuous motion. Am I understanding properly?

    As to the paste: I'm not worried about that because I know it to be my problem alone. I use a pasted paddle that is narrow and I've never really gotten the hang of keeping a flat edge once part of the blade goes off the paddle. To compensate, I've discovered that I was applying too much pressure and dulling the blade. I will at sometime get a 3" bench hone from Tony but right now I'm happy shaving off the 8k of the Norton.

    Thanks to everyone for helping me.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    As to the paste: I'm not worried about that because I know it to be my problem alone. I use a pasted paddle that is narrow and I've never really gotten the hang of keeping a flat edge once part of the blade goes off the paddle.
    Yeah the thin paddles are pretty tricky to use well. When you're ready to step up get a wide 2-sided paddle from Tony and put either boron carbide or 1 micron diamond on one side, and chrome oxide on the other. I'd actually recommend buying your own abrasive and pasting it yourself, simply because you're gonna have to repaste it eventually so you might as well have the stuff around.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mparker762 View Post
    Yeah the thin paddles are pretty tricky to use well. When you're ready to step up get a wide 2-sided paddle from Tony and put either boron carbide or 1 micron diamond on one side, and chrome oxide on the other. I'd actually recommend buying your own abrasive and pasting it yourself, simply because you're gonna have to repaste it eventually so you might as well have the stuff around.
    I've been hearing good things on the chrome oxide. It seems to give a smoother edge over the diamond paste, from what I understand. Thanks for the idea !

  6. #16
    Junior Member mike-s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mparker762 View Post
    A lot of this advice like no pressure when stropping or shaving or honing is intended for beginners, and for them it's the right advice. As you gain more experience you'll begin to figure out when it's ok to break the rules.

    But for now, no pressure when stropping. Or honing. Or shaving. And keep that strop taut.

    And that tinging sound you're hearing is a bad thing. Start flipping the razor while it's still moving, but make sure you're coming back the other way before you complete the flip or you'll nick your strop. You will likely get careless and nick your strop at least a few times before you master this, but the strop can usually be fixed.
    Since I had my razor sharpened recently by Lynn / classicshaving.com, I'll try the no-pressure thing with the strop and shave. I have to assume it's sharp since he's the man and did the sharpening himself!

    This could be a new thread, but I was also wondering about facial features. I am a pretty tall & skinny guy, and I have a kind of lean face with lots of angles. My skin is pretty sensitive too. Could that affect the type of razor I should have? It seems the shaving experience is very different for people with heavier faces or people with just plain more meat on them from a couple of videos I've seen. One guy in particular I saw on YouTube was really pressing the razor into the side of his face and the shave looked great. If I tried that I'd have no cheek left!

    ~ Mike

  7. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    CrO2 is DA BOMB!!!

    Seriously, it gives very smooth edges on all the razors I have tried until now (I am a recent convert from 8K / Lithide / Swaty / Belgian - plan to try it on alll of my razors, eventually)

    Cheers
    Ivo

  8. #18
    Senior Member sensei_kyle's Avatar
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    With a sharp razor, you need no measurable pressure against your face. Pressing with the razor will shave closer, but it also gives you razor burn. With sensitive skin, extra pressure is going to be a no-no.

    The easiest way I've found to deal with multiple angles is to divide it into several zones, then focus on each zone individually. For example, I divide my chin into about 6 zones on my 1st & 2nd pass. If I'm going for ultra-BBS, I divide it into about 12 zones and finish with a water only pass.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by sensei_kyle View Post
    With a sharp razor, you need no measurable pressure against your face. Pressing with the razor will shave closer, but it also gives you razor burn. With sensitive skin, extra pressure is going to be a no-no.

    The easiest way I've found to deal with multiple angles is to divide it into several zones, then focus on each zone individually. For example, I divide my chin into about 6 zones on my 1st & 2nd pass. If I'm going for ultra-BBS, I divide it into about 12 zones and finish with a water only pass.
    Is there any way to describe those 6-12 zones? It might help my chin shave as well.

  10. #20
    Junior Member mike-s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sensei_kyle View Post
    With a sharp razor, you need no measurable pressure against your face. Pressing with the razor will shave closer, but it also gives you razor burn. With sensitive skin, extra pressure is going to be a no-no.

    The easiest way I've found to deal with multiple angles is to divide it into several zones, then focus on each zone individually. For example, I divide my chin into about 6 zones on my 1st & 2nd pass. If I'm going for ultra-BBS, I divide it into about 12 zones and finish with a water only pass.
    Maybe that's my problem, I've been pressing in a little too much. To be honest, my shaves with the straight are still leaving me really rough. My wife prefers me to use the Gillette I've been using up until now because it leaves my face so smooth-- and a lot less bloody! The straight hasn't even come close to that level of smoothness yet, but I keep hoping it will! Thanks for all your guys' help in that regard.

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