Thread: Making a brush

You just can't spell Didgeridoo...


Mick

Originally Posted by MickR

You just can't spell Didgeridoo...


Mick

bwa hahahhahhahaha!

Originally Posted by MickR

You just can't spell Didgeridoo...


Mick

Lol. There are about 3-4 ways of spelling it. No way is wrong. An actual termite hollowed one is called Yirdaki.


In other news, Thank you everyone for the information about how the hair and handle are joined. I really expected something like cutting the handle blank in half, hollowing out part of it and epoxy-ing the two halfs together with the hair in place.

Actually, I might try it that way to guarantee the hole is smaller than the knot itself and use a couple of smallish hose clamps to keep it together while the expoxy cures and the two halves are joined.

I'll post pictures and updates of my finished work using both methods.

Every brush maker has differing opinions on which adhesive is best; some use marine epoxy, some use standard two ton epoxy, some use 5 minute epoxy and others use gorilla glue

I think that "5-minute epoxy" isn't recommended for continuous immersion in water. I wouldn't use it for a shaving brush.

Marine epoxy -- West, or System 3 - that'll last forever under water.

Charles

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

I think that "5-minute epoxy" isn't recommended for continuous immersion in water. I wouldn't use it for a shaving brush.

Marine epoxy -- West, or System 3 - that'll last forever under water.

Charles

I don't suggest it either, but last time I said that I didn't trust it I got shot down by a couple of other people.

My favorite commercial epoxy is MAS.

Mick: not to teach an Aussie, but according to what I've read he is right. There are other words he spelled wrong! As you know I have been playing for some time now (that neighbor hates me now more than ever).

As for the costs, the higher priced brushes are usually out of stabilized wood $
My custom epoxies cost money $
Time $
Equipment cost $
Etcetera.

It is usually cheaper to make something. I suggest it to those who can. Some people cannot. Others choose to spend their time elsewhere. Remember that knots are rarely the same size as drill bits. I drill as close as I can then turn up to size. I also will file the knot base since they are rarely very round or even.

Originally Posted by deighaingeal

...
Mick: not to teach an Aussie, but according to what I've read he is right. There are other words he spelled wrong! As you know I have been playing for some time now (that neighbor hates me now more than ever)...

Yes, I know. I was just having a joke . Not that Aboriginals used the whitemans writing system of course...But there you have it. Yirdaki is an Arnhem dialect word...There were many dialects, most now lost to history. Didgeridoo/didjuridu etc. is a whiteman made name . Not trying to teach a Didge player...

You keep up the good work on that neighbour of yours deighaingeal...I wish I could sit in his front yard when you two got a tandem session going...That would be an awesome sound I reckon.


Mick

Thank you for that. I was about to ask what kinds of marine epoxies people use. I was and might still play with my old stand by resin: Resourcinol. That stuff lasts forever and is nearly indestructible, but also very very expensive. Very.

You all have been very helpful with this. I do not know if it is appropriate but my first few are basically test runs and if anyone wants one let me know. they will be free as I will not be able to guarantee quality or anything like that plus it would be good to get some feedback. I will start cranking them out as soon as I get my knots in the mail.

Meantime, I am going to start with a boar hair brush by tearing down this HORRIBLE hollowed plastic handled brush I have and moving the bristles to a new handle.

pauly.. i look forward to seeing photos.. welcome to srp.

Thank you for that. I was about to ask what kinds of marine epoxies people use. I was and might still play with my old stand by resin: Resourcinol. That stuff lasts forever and is nearly indestructible, but also very very expensive. Very.

Speaking as a boat owner:

The leading brands are probably "West System" and "System 3". Both are water-clear when cured.

Resorcinol, if I remember right, isn't an epoxy. I think it leaves a purple glue-line, and it's more waterproof than the epoxies. For wood-to-wood joints that are going to be underwater and wet, resorcinol is the preferred glue.

A little Googling gives this list of marine glues, and their properties:

Titebond 3 waterproof glue

I hadn't thought of it, but a polyurethane "adhesive-sealant" like 3M 5200 would make a very forgiving, very permanent joint between a knot and a handle. Messy, though.

Charles

Originally Posted by PaulyGoodshave

I do not know if it is appropriate but my first few are basically test runs and if anyone wants one let me know. they will be free as I will not be able to guarantee quality or anything like that plus it would be good to get some feedback.

i would gladly test out your brush for you as i have recently lost my brush,

-dan-