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Thread: Making a brush

  1. #21
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    You're correct. It's a two part resin, Resourcinol dries kind of dark red/magenta colored. It is sometimes used on those weird cone shaped buildings the state uses to store salt and ash/coal for the roads in the winter. That line it leaves is VERY difficult to prevent, no matter how even and smooth the surfaces are.

    I'd prefer to use a clear epoxy or resin with any wood working I do for that very reason but I wasn't really sure what kind of marine epoxy I should use. I will check into the ones you have listed.

    Lately I have been experimenting with the titebond 3 and so far, I am fairly happy with it's results, plus it is uber cheap and that is a real plus.

    The clear epoxies however would be better for me overall as a true waterproof slealant that will also allow the grain of the wood to show through and be tough as nails at the same time, generally for that I use hellsman spar urethane and was thinking about coating the brush handls with that.

    Good idea? or should I use the marine epoxy for everything?

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  3. #22
    Senior Member nipper's Avatar
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    All the posts are interesting,but where does one find the different grades of knots? I'm guess ebay but if thats the case the quality will certainly differ from seller to seller.

  4. #23
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    The clear epoxies however would be better for me overall as a true waterproof slealant that will also allow the grain of the wood to show through and be tough as nails at the same time, generally for that I use hellsman spar urethane and was thinking about coating the brush handls with that.

    Good idea? or should I use the marine epoxy for everything?
    IMHO --

    If you coat the handle with epoxy, it'll sink into the wood and seal it. Very protective, very tough.

    Epoxy isn't designed as a "finish coat". It'll run and it's sticky as heck. You may have lots of sanding to do.

    For marine use, you can use polyurethane varnish (for gloss and UV resistance) _over_ an epoxy sealing coat. Such a brush handle would last forever, and look very nice.

    I think there's a Wiki (on this site) about finishing wooden scales in epoxy or cyanoacrylate. It seemed to be a lot of work, but the results were beautiful. You might find some epoxy information on knifemaking sites -- it would make a really tough finish for a wooden knife handle.

    Charles

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  6. #24
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    I found mine on eBay. They were cheap and I bought them with the knowledge in the back of my head they may cause the universe to collapse in around itself if attached to a handle because they COULD be the poorest quality or died synthetic hair things but the idea of using nice cheap knots to learn on and make mistakes with far outweighs temporal "Oopsies". I have seen a vendor or two that sell what might be very good quality knots but you are going to spend a little more money on them.

    That is the thing about eBay: It can be a grab bag of disappointment or ultimate pleasure. You sometimes never know exactly what you're going to get until you get it.
    Last edited by PaulyGoodshave; 01-09-2011 at 11:14 AM.

  7. #25
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    That is yet another thing I didn't know about epoxies. Thank you. I will try to bone up on them a bit later today.

  8. #26
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nipper View Post
    All the posts are interesting,but where does one find the different grades of knots? I'm guess ebay but if thats the case the quality will certainly differ from seller to seller.

    You can get them from here, as well.

    Fountain Pen parts - NIBS, - Wholesale Fountain Pen Ink - Golden Nib AZ


    Mick

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    Senior Member deighaingeal's Avatar
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    Finishing is an art in and of itself. I don't teach finishing unless in person, but. If you get sticky epoxy it is because you either didn't fully mix it or didn't measure carefully.

    Many newer finish quality epoxies contain UV inhibitors.

    If finishing is an art then epoxy finishes are an advanced course. It takes practice to get your finishes down. There are many methods one does involve drips, sanding and polishing. I personally hate sanding therefore have developed tools to eliminate these steps.

    This is part of the reason why people spend the money on custom made brushes. Not everyone has six gallons of custom mixed epoxy in their house. Add the knowledge of knots (I own 27 and have used more), the turning skills and knowledge regarding acquisition of knots this is why some one would email a maker give them specifics about how they want a brush to feel (rather than rely on the brush du jour) then the maker can suggest, acquire and supply.

    If you can make your own then feel free, you will receive a sense of satisfaction that many don't.

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  12. #28
    Striving for a perfect shave. GeauxLSU's Avatar
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    I've never made a brush, but I want to try. My wood working experience comes from building these. Not too much I can transfer.







    I strop my razor with my eyes closed.

  13. #29
    Senior Member deighaingeal's Avatar
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    Have you ever thought of carving the handle rather than turning? It really is easy compared to what you have done.

  14. #30
    Striving for a perfect shave. GeauxLSU's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deighaingeal View Post
    Have you ever thought of carving the handle rather than turning? It really is easy compared to what you have done.
    No, I hadn't. But, you've got my gears turning...
    I strop my razor with my eyes closed.

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