Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
Like Tree3Likes

Thread: Issue with my wooden brush

  1. #1
    Senior Member Razorthin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    227
    Thanked: 18

    Default Issue with my wooden brush

    I have a Stephen Woodworking brush (cocobolo handle) from SRD and I am very happy with it. The only issue I have is the fact the wood collects a whitish residue or discoloration up to about an inch from the bristles. I don't believe is soap or dried up glycerin. Is that just moisture slowly damaging the wood? According to SRD, this brush is finished with Danish oil.

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Roseville,Kali
    Posts
    10,432
    Thanked: 2027

    Default

    All my brushes get at least 4 coats of ren-wax that should be re-applied a couple times a year,that will keep them looking nice if you dry well after using

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to pixelfixed For This Useful Post:

    Mvcrash (06-28-2013)

  4. #3
    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    32,800
    Thanked: 5017
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    if you are going to use a wood brush and want it to look like new you need to treat it every so often. Any good wax will do the trick. Otherwise the water and soap will get into the wood.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

  5. #4
    Ooo Shiny cannonfodder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Downingtown, Pa
    Posts
    1,658
    Thanked: 390
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    It is soap buildup. Cocobolo is naturally water proof due to the high oil content which is why it is used in a lot of knife handles. A normal wood finish will not cure on most rosewoods, it will stay gummy forever. I get the same thing on my brushes (finished and not) now and then but normally a good rubbing with a damp towel will take it off. Milled soaps seam to be the worst when it comes to leaving residue. You can wipe it now and then with mineral oil, walnut oil, butcher block oil, etc.... if you wish to 'refresh' the finish but they should be pretty much maintenance free.

    You could always send it back to me and I can take a look at it, give it a light sanding in the lathe and put a fresh finish on it for you. If it is a defect of some kind, which does happen now and then, I will replace it. I make hundreds of these for SRD but now and then I do get one that develops a defect. I can count the bad units on one hand but it does happen now and then as with any product. You can drop me an email at ineedespresso(at)sbcglobal.net if you want. I am Stephens wood working if you did not guess. I stand behind my work and if it is not right I fix it.

    Dave
    Mvcrash, pfries and EAGLESKADU like this.

  6. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Roseville,Kali
    Posts
    10,432
    Thanked: 2027

    Default

    accolades to you Dave,Question tho,how would you chuck a finished brush in a lathe??

  7. #6
    Ooo Shiny cannonfodder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Downingtown, Pa
    Posts
    1,658
    Thanked: 390
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Very carefully and a low speed setting. I have some custom made drive spurs one of which is little more than a blunt ended rod that will go through the nap of the knot and rest against the backing. The live center end gets double stick taped to some scrap with the center point already set in it. Then turn the lathe down as far as it will go and gently run some 400/600 grit paper over it. Then wipe it with a fresh oil finish. Too fast or too much pressure and you will damage the brush or it will fly off and smack you in the forehead.

  8. #7
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Roseville,Kali
    Posts
    10,432
    Thanked: 2027

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cannonfodder View Post
    Very carefully and a low speed setting. I have some custom made drive spurs one of which is little more than a blunt ended rod that will go through the nap of the knot and rest against the backing. The live center end gets double stick taped to some scrap with the center point already set in it. Then turn the lathe down as far as it will go and gently run some 400/600 grit paper over it. Then wipe it with a fresh oil finish. Too fast or too much pressure and you will damage the brush or it will fly off and smack you in the forehead.
    Been there done that just scored a Vac pump,am going to try and make an air chuck for light work.

  9. #8
    Ooo Shiny cannonfodder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Downingtown, Pa
    Posts
    1,658
    Thanked: 390
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Cool. PowerMatic makes a wicked monster lathe with a built in vac chuck and 3 phase 220 motor if you ever want to turn a block of wood the size of a Ford. Huge monster if you ever get to put hands on one.

    JET 1794224K, 4224B Lathe 3hp 1/3ph 220V

  10. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Corcoran, Minnesota
    Posts
    665
    Thanked: 170

    Default

    I have a piece of leather that I wrap around the brush before it goes in the chuck. Works well at keeping scratches away from finished brushes. Of course, that doesn't help with the bottom end. As far as oil finishes go, Birchwood Casey (an excellent source for a gun oil I have used on knife scales) recommends "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and every 6 months after that". That's why I'm going with CA - it's more of less idiot proof.
    Pixel - keep us informed on the vacuum chuck project - I'm really interested in that idea.
    Cannon - nice lathe - I'll think about it when I win the lottery.

  11. #10
    Senior Member Doryferon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    HELLAS
    Posts
    399
    Thanked: 29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Razorthin View Post
    According to SRD, this brush is finished with Danish oil.
    Those kind of Oils don't give to the wood too much protection from moisture
    They used mainly for other reasons
    If you want to keep your brush send it (or by your self if you know) for some sandpaper work and then Shellac.





    I have done it,here is an example.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •