Results 11 to 20 of 26
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12-15-2013, 02:52 AM #11
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Thanked: 2027Set the knot at 50 mm.
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12-15-2013, 02:59 AM #12
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12-15-2013, 03:05 AM #13
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Thanked: 2027
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12-15-2013, 03:11 AM #14
Oh wow, I completely misread 50mm as 5mm at first. Alright, got it, 50mm of brush from the top of the handle, whatever depth takes to get it there. Thanks.
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12-15-2013, 03:11 AM #15
An example to my preferences. 24 mm fan 2-band. I like to size the knot as big as I can to the handle. I also give the knot a strong Oxyclean bath and dry/fluff before fitting. This gets me a better approximation of how the knot should be set as the knot has "bloomed" mostly. I get it to the depth where it feels right on my face. Then I shove it down a tad!
That's it! Adhere and position. I don't use epoxy. Automotive Goop for me! More forgiving, yet takes longer to cure.
I think I see those restoring older, bristle brushes not understanding that they should make certain that there is sufficient depth to the handle to allow for proper installation of a great, modern 2-bander! Depending upon ID, some need as much as 3/4 inch, FME !Last edited by sharptonn; 12-15-2013 at 03:40 AM.
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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12-15-2013, 04:50 AM #16
I'll take the advise. I was wondering if the shelf was deep enough, but it's not going to be. Going to go ahead and drill it out while the knot is shipping. What am I looking for exactly in terms of "Automotive Goop"? I don't mind waiting for it to cure if it's more forgiving.
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12-15-2013, 05:08 PM #17
Here ya go! Test fit the knot, record loft. Smear the goop inside the handle and place a big dollop on the knot base, reinsert and adjust, hang upside down to cure. The Goop is a thick product, does not run fast. It will droop down around the knot base and dry as air hits it. I have never had any run out on the hairs. Dries slowly, esp inside the handle where there is little air, so hang for about a week. Easy job, no mess. If you do get some on the handle, you can peel it off with a fingernail as it has cured some. I have done lots and all are very solid. You can find it at O'Reilly's auto parts. Good for scores of things.
It is also sold as Household Goop, Shoe Goop, same stuff.Last edited by sharptonn; 12-15-2013 at 05:18 PM.
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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12-15-2013, 06:44 PM #18
Thanks for the pictures. I think I know just what you're talking about now. I'd burn a hole through a pair of tennis shoes in a week or two when I was younger and used "Shoe Goo" a lot. It looked just like that and moved/cured the way you describe.
I think I'm going to go with epoxy though for this particular handle. The issue here is the thing is hollow all the way to the bottom and the goop has a slight give to it, at least the stuff I remember using. That would work great on top of a firm base, and I can see how it'd be more forgiving, but I'm going to need to create a base about an inch thick.
It's cleaned up and drilled out now. Just need to wait for the knot I ordered to get here and maybe dremel around the inside once more. I've read people use marine epoxy a lot and I imagine that stuff will work to make a thick, firm base.
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12-15-2013, 07:43 PM #19
I am cetain Epoxy will work well. Be carefull to not get any on the outside of that celluloid handle! The aluminum one pictured above is totally hollow. The goop works fine with those. As you hang it upside down, the goop levels off.
Makes a fine, tight job. We must remember that they used molten rubber to set them back in the day for the most part.
Look how hard that stuff is to get out most of the time!"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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12-15-2013, 07:45 PM #20
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- Jan 2011
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- Roseville,Kali
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Thanked: 2027Plaster of paris works great to build up the inside.