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Thread: Brush Handle finishes
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02-02-2014, 08:56 PM #1
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Thanked: 375Brush Handle finishes
Just wanted to know what you all use for a finish on your handles, and maybe your finishing process.
I use 2P-10 Thin and sand with 600 grit after the 4th coat, and apply 4 more coats, sanding again with 600, 1500, 2000, 3000 then buff
I recently had a customer return something with a mechanical failure and the finish on the wood handle to me was less than impressive after only a month of use. Now I'll note that the failure was a razor head, not my work. But anyhow the whole point is what can I do to improve my finishes? The only time something comes back to me (twice in 3 yrs.) is for something other then what I made, it's always the component I had to buy to complete the project that's failed. So it;s very rare to see what my finish looks like after some time.
Would an activator be advisable with 2P-10 (CA glue)? Or should I use Med. CA and activator - I've never used activator before, but now that I think about it, would cold weather contribute to a bad finish using CA so maybe an activator is needed over the winter months?
Thanks for any input!CHRIS
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02-04-2014, 01:11 AM #2
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Thanked: 2284I use CA with an activator at work all the time, but I'm not using it as a finish. I use a product called mitre bond. We use it for, well, bonding mitres and also any other application where we need a quick bond. In my experience with the activator on the CA is it causes it to bubble, turn a hazy color, creates heat, and also gives off a bit of smoke when used in a large quantity. It does however cause it to cure instantly.
I have never tried it, but using the activator on the CA to cure it fast, for a finish, would NOT work IMO. However, YMMV.Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....
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02-04-2014, 03:05 AM #3
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Thanked: 375Thanks Andrew! I've been using CA for the past three years without activator, with no issue, but this one handle came back in less then stellar condition aka no shine. And I had a brush I had made for myself recently and the same thing has happened. I think I'm going to chalk it up to the cold weather, my shops not heated, and we've been in the negative temps. over the past couple of weeks.
I've read about CA getting cloudy with activator too so good to know.CHRIS
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02-04-2014, 03:13 AM #4
Excessive humidity can make it go cloudy as well.
I just took a look at the instructions for "Hot Stuff" which is the thin CA I use. Cold is one of the reasons they recommend considering using an accelerator, so obviously it has some effect on the curing process. Unfortunately they don't specify any ideal temp range. They also note that cold will slow the curing time. No real surprise there, but you may be on to something there regarding it affecting the clarity of its finish.
It was in original condition, faded red, well-worn, but nice.
This was and still is my favorite combination; beautiful, original, and worn.
-Neil Young
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02-04-2014, 03:23 AM #5
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Thanked: 375Don't laugh, but I use a 100 watt light bulb, placed about 4" from my work to help it cure. It's really a drafting table lamp that I use to flood the area with light over my lathe, but it does double duty as a heat source. Sad, sad, sad........I need to install a wood stove, or something. My shop is 22x22 so a lot of space to heat, and it's not insulated completely.
CHRIS
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02-04-2014, 03:24 AM #6
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Thanked: 2284I saw this on youtube the other day and thought of trying it. Although I have been trying to get away from hard surface coatings, they are very durable and very waterproof.
Super Finishing for Turning - YouTube
The latest product I have been using, and really liking is this. U-Beaut Polishes - SHELLAWAX CREAM
I take my work piece to 2500 grit and then apply this with my lathe running very fast. (not sure of the RPMs.) The shine from it is excellent and doesn't give that clear plastic feel and look. It does take some practice to get the proper glow from this product though, it burnishes the finish right into the wood. Now Its a matter of using the piece to see how the durability holds up.
Oh, and its expensive too.Last edited by HARRYWALLY; 02-04-2014 at 03:28 AM.
Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....
02-04-2014, 03:42 AM
#7
It was in original condition, faded red, well-worn, but nice.
This was and still is my favorite combination; beautiful, original, and worn.
-Neil Young
02-04-2014, 03:55 AM
#8
Here's some similar items, but cheaper.
Buy HUT Crystal Coat at Woodcraft
Buy Behlen Woodturners Finish at Woodcraft
and my personal favorite that can be used for turning, I use it for finishing scales, and it can even be sprayed with an airbrush or hvlp system, water based, food safe when cured, and it cleans up with soap and water. Pretty versatile stuff.
Buy General Finishes Wood Turners Finish 8oz at Woodcraft
Mastering implies there is nothing more for you to learn of something... I prefer proficient enough to not totally screw it up.
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HARRYWALLY (02-04-2014)
02-04-2014, 03:58 AM
#9
I have heard woodworkers praise it, and have heard some having issues due to a supposed chemical reaction with the linseed and CA...something about possible toxic fumes? Not sure haven't tried it myself, but I know some of the blue shop paper towels will begin to smoke and give off toxic vapors with CA ( I personally found this with loktite and gorilla glue...pretty narly stuff).
Mastering implies there is nothing more for you to learn of something... I prefer proficient enough to not totally screw it up.
The Following User Says Thank You to tiddle For This Useful Post:
Cangooner (02-04-2014)
02-04-2014, 05:17 AM
#10
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Thanked: 375
The Following User Says Thank You to Trimmy72 For This Useful Post:
Cangooner (02-04-2014)