Thread: Transplant in Progress

Originally Posted by SRNewb

This was not as successful as the surgeon supposed it would be, so a 1/4" bit was used to drill through the center of the knot, and through a thick cardboard base that formed the floor of the cavity. After which, the Forstner was again employed.


Next time, I'll just use the 1/4" bit and the spade bits in succession.

I have never removed a knot but wonder why drilling the 1/4" hole and then using the spade bit would work better. I have found that using a spade bit to drill into an existing hole wobbles a lot and is dang near if not impossible to get a round hole. Also if the original had a cardboard filler/stop in it why did they do it and why not copy them? How is the balance of the final product after the surgery compared to the original? Where they trying to save material and glue or is there a reason?

I like the looks of your surgery and in the end that is what counts.

Originally Posted by 32t

I have never removed a knot but wonder why drilling the 1/4" hole and then using the spade bit would work better. I have found that using a spade bit to drill into an existing hole wobbles a lot and is dang near if not impossible to get a round hole. Also if the original had a cardboard filler/stop in it why did they do it and why not copy them? How is the balance of the final product after the surgery compared to the original? Where they trying to save material and glue or is there a reason?

I like the looks of your surgery and in the end that is what counts.

Normally with a spade bit (or a forstner) I will sometimes drill a small pilot hole to help center the bit, or use a punch to mark the location of the drilling. since each has a a little pointed tip that will fit into that pilot hole or indentation. I suspect the 1/4" hole was just small enough. But I also followed up with a 11/16" spade as well, with no problems. I just moved from one thing to another until I found what worked, and didn't analyze it overmuch.
I will say that I learned to use a hand drill in the USAF over 30 years ago, and have continued to use one with various hobbies over the years. Most recently as an amateur guitar builder. Not bragging, but I'm really good with a drill. A variable speed drill can be controlled quite well if you know how. Most of it is instinct at this point, but I suspect the side walls of the hole the knot was in had a lot to do with helping me control the spade bits.
As to why they used cardboard, I suspect you are correct; to save material and glue, and because it was probably quicker and simpler to do that way. To me, that's a crappy way of doing things. Plus, the coins, filler plug and epoxy used in the handle added a slight bit of weight. Just enough to improve, at least for me, the way the handle feels in the hand, and the way it handles. Before, the brush was very light. Now, it just feels more solid and substantial.

Thanks for the update posting Mike, but you didn't update us on the performance with a 52mm loft.

Kindestcut, sorry about that. Didn't have time last night. Here are my thoughts, so far.
Firstly, this is the softest brush I have ever put to my face. Just incredibly soft, with not even a hint of any type of scritch. But, at 52mm, there is zero scrub, and a light backbone. It is not quite floppy, but not far away. As a consequence, there is more than enough splay on the face. In fact, if I reduce the amount of pressure used when lathering, I can get for me the perfect amount of splay on my face. I was not really aware how hard I have been pushing my boars and my Simpson D2 into my face, until now. The jury's still out on whether that's a good thing or a bad thing. I will need to use the brush more to know for certain.
The other thing that surprised me was water retention. I have a Simpson in Best, as mentioned above, and it holds water well, but this thing puts it to shame as far as the amount of water it absorbs and retains. It is something I will need to be aware of.
As a matter of fact, I think that this brush will require me to rethink my approach to brushes and lathering. I will have to "learn" this brush in order to get the best out of it.
I think that's a good thing. Something different, something else to learn.

Originally Posted by SRNewb

... The other thing that surprised me was water retention. I have a Simpson in Best, as mentioned above, and it holds water well, but this thing puts it to shame as far as the amount of water it absorbs and retains. It is something I will need to be aware of.
As a matter of fact, I think that this brush will require me to rethink my approach to brushes and lathering. I will have to "learn" this brush in order to get the best out of it.
I think that's a good thing. Something different, something else to learn.

Same thing happened to me with my recent TGN High Mountain White. It took a few days to tune in, but it's a winner so far. If I bowl lather it overflows with just a little soap or cream.

Good luck.

If anyone is interested, here is tonight's shave with this brush.