Crystal Chubby handled brush.

**Gipson** · 03-11-2015, 07:19 AM

I like manual work. Excellent work in photos.

**MikekiM** · 03-11-2015, 10:36 AM

If you asked me before hand, I would have said the I wouldn't like the idea of seeing the adhesive in the knot cup. But I would have been wrong. I love seeing what's going on inside!!

That's beautiful!!

**Trimmy72** · 03-11-2015, 02:31 PM

That's pretty cool Andrew, top notch!

**RollinCoal69** · 03-11-2015, 04:00 PM

Awesome!!! Love Simpson brushes. Great design. On a side note I also like the look of the clear acrylic unpolished. Kind of a frost look. Hmmmmm new brush ideal already.

**BWP1474** · 03-11-2015, 04:45 PM

Harrywally,
Been admiring your work for some time.
I have a lathe set up question for you. Is that a collet that you use to mount the brush in the insert (pic 5 & 6) It looks like its then mounted directly into your jacobs chuck. Can you share a little about your set up?
Thanks
BWP

**petercp4e** · 03-12-2015, 12:51 AM

Very classy!!

Pete <:-}

**HARRYWALLY** · 03-12-2015, 01:19 AM

Originally Posted by BWP1474

Harrywally,
Been admiring your work for some time.
I have a lathe set up question for you. Is that a collet that you use to mount the brush in the insert (pic 5 & 6) It looks like its then mounted directly into your jacobs chuck. Can you share a little about your set up?
Thanks
BWP

Absolutely!

When I make brushes from wood, I mount the blank into my Talon chuck jaws, bore the knot hole with a forstner bit and then drill and tap for a mandrel. That is then inserted into a jacobs chuck and the remainder of the brush is turned.

With this transparent acrylic, everything on the inside is visible. So, the acrylic I still start by mounting in my Talon chuck jaws, and bore the hole 2/3 of the depth I normally would. I then finish the rest of the depth by hand with a turning tool. The reason for this is the guide spike on the forstner bit. Looks terrible with that showing through. It looks way better to have a perfectly flat base on the inside of the cup. I then sand the inside cup ( hole for the knot ) and the top lip to 2500. The top lip also needs to be sanded because the collet I use has a stop on it that covers that section, and you won't be able to get to it once mounted.

Beall I-X (Internal Expanding) Collet Set - Lee Valley Tools

These are the collets I use for all my clear acrylics. Once mounted inside the knot cup/pocket/hole it gets mounted directly into the jacobs chuck on the headstock. The rest of the brush can be finished turned from this setup. This is a very solid mount and find it has very little vibration. If wood wouldn't split, I would do all my brushes this way. Unfortunately, wood shaving brushes tend to have thin walls in this area so a mandrel is better suited for wood. Remember, between centres whenever possible and don't forget to ride that bevel!

Hope that helps. Maybe in the future I'll make a vid of the whole procedure.

**prodigy** · 03-12-2015, 01:40 AM

Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

Hope that helps. Maybe in the future I'll make a vid of the whole procedure.

Please do!

**lethalgraphix** · 03-12-2015, 01:59 AM

Well it's official. I'm gonna start making brushes as well. Hell, I'm a machinist for God's sake. Just gonna invest in some carving tools.

**RoyalCake** · 03-12-2015, 02:12 AM

As was said before - you knocked that one out of the park!

Thread: Crystal Chubby handled brush.

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