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Thread: First brush
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12-10-2016, 03:43 PM #1
Crazing can be a desired finish. I actually kinda like it, but I know what you're going for. You might start thinking about a way
to create a temperature controlled environment.Rog
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12-10-2016, 03:49 PM #2
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Thanked: 237Honestly I don't really mind it, but it was a surprise so I was kinda bummed. My biggest fear is whether or not it will still protect wood from water during use. As far as a temperature controlled environment, I won't be able to do that until I buy my own house, which is at least a year out. Thanks for the input guys, maybe I'll do danish oil next time.
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12-10-2016, 04:02 PM #3
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Thanked: 4207CA does make a nice glass like finish on pens, and scales. Never used it on a brush though personally. That's a good looking turn sir, nice handle.
Did you use an accelerator to speed the cure?
Acetone wiped while spinning will blend that out again, but will necessitate more coats being applied. Can wrap the knot in masking tape to protect it, and the brush while you rechuck.
Maybe a heat lamp in the shop aimed at the lathe will allow you to work into the colder temps?
Had to move my wood working stuff into the basement from the garage for the same reasons.
Love winter, hate the cold though, lol."Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
Steven Wright
https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5
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The Following User Says Thank You to MikeB52 For This Useful Post:
HARRYWALLY (12-10-2016)
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12-10-2016, 04:18 PM #4
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Thanked: 237Because I'm a college student my options are limited. My lathe is on the front porch, so I don't really have optimal conditions. I might try the acetone to blend and refinish, but maybe when this cold snap passes. Thanks for the encouragement guys, it means a lot to know that some of you more experienced guys like my stuff. Mike what finish do you normally do on brushes. I'll be at woodcraft tomorrow for a bowl turning class and could try something new. I currently only have ca and danish oil.
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12-10-2016, 04:19 PM #5
Crazing will allow moisture to get to the wood, darkening it in the same pattern as the craze, but not evenly.
I once lost a job at a tile shop for explaining this very thing to the home owner. I can't look at a crazed finish
without thinking of that tile shop...oh well. Best of luck, buddy!Rog
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12-10-2016, 04:56 PM #6
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Thanked: 4207For me, urethane's, tru oil, and friction pastes have been my preferred finish choices.
Tru oil on the non oily woods, urethane's or pastes on the oily ones.
Danish oils always a good finish as well.
Seems the oils take longest, but are the longest lasting as well.
Go figure,,"Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
Steven Wright
https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5
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The Following User Says Thank You to MikeB52 For This Useful Post:
HARRYWALLY (12-10-2016)
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12-10-2016, 05:08 PM #7
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Thanked: 237What pastes should I look for? I will be doing a lot of cocobolo and lignum vitae.
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12-10-2016, 05:43 PM #8
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Thanked: 4207I use Shellawax cream, and General turners finish, both with good results. I get them at LeeValley. General's seemed slightly easier to get good at. Shellawax is a bit trickier to get the right technique between application and removal.
I also use a 2 bar type polish wax (hut PPP) designed for pens on handles without beads or grooves in their design with good results.Last edited by MikeB52; 12-10-2016 at 05:46 PM.
"Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
Steven Wright
https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5
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The Following User Says Thank You to MikeB52 For This Useful Post:
HARRYWALLY (12-10-2016)
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12-10-2016, 06:55 PM #9
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Thanked: 146I always got great results from a 2 part epoxy finish, parks super glaze is the brand. I made a turning machine from an old water softener timer, mount the brush on the bottom of the knot hole. It turns at 1 rpm and works great. No runs on the finish, and usually 1 or 2 coats.
Luck is a matter of preparation meeting opportunity. ~Lucius Annaeus Seneca
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The Following User Says Thank You to JoeSomebody For This Useful Post:
MikeB52 (12-10-2016)