Thread: First brush

Crap Kyle. I had a brush do this to me quite a while ago. It pissed me off royally, so I feel your pain. I sanded it all off and sprayed the whole thing with high gloss poly. That also makes for an excellent finish, but there's a learning curve with spraying poly without runs. I'd have to totally agree with everything Mike has said. CA is so frustrating. One reason I looked to another finish, like a good oil.

Thought I'd add this, I think I've blabbed about it before. I've been reading about what other wood turners have been using for finishes, and focusing on what the true professionals are using. Hardwax oil keeps being mentioned as their top choice. In the near future I'll be giving it a go.

HardWax-Oil : woodchuckers.com

This is the Canadian site I've been getting my stabilizing fluid from, and they also have tons of other great products that are always tempting me.

For you American boys, I'm sure you should have no problem finding someone down there carrying these products.

Very interesting.

Thanks for the info, Im reading up on that stuff right meow.

INGREDIENTS
Based on natural plant oils and waxes (sunflower oil, soya oil, thistle oil, carnauba wax and candelilla wax), paraffin, lead-free siccatives (drying agents) and water-repellent additives. Dearomatized white spirit (benzene-free).

Pretty cryptic, list of ingredients, thats whats in it...but what is in it hahaa water repellant additives...Im reading up some more, I want to compare it to my old favorite waterlox.


Oh the $%#@ing sideways pics are KILLING me!!

Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

Crap Kyle. I had a brush do this to me quite a while ago. It pissed me off royally, so I feel your pain. I sanded it all off and sprayed the whole thing with high gloss poly. That also makes for an excellent finish, but there's a learning curve with spraying poly without runs. I'd have to totally agree with everything Mike has said. CA is so frustrating. One reason I looked to another finish, like a good oil.

So as far as saving this one. What's the best way to rechuck it with the knot being on there?

Originally Posted by prodigy

So as far as saving this one. What's the best way to rechuck it with the knot being on there?

Good question......

Rubber bumpers for your chuck would be the ideal way, but you probably don't have those. Even if you did, I'm not sure you could reverse chuck it to finish the bottom......

wrapping the base with masking tape comes to mind, but we still have the same problem with reverse chucking it to finish the bottom....

I've tried wrapping the badger hair with masking tape, and grabbing onto that, but it just doesn't work.....

If it were me, I'd hand sand all that crackle off and give it 7-8 spray coats of high gloss poly.

If that's not your flavor, sand it down and do a good oil like Tru Oil.


If none of that tickles your fancy, well, you might have to live with it.

Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

Good question......

Rubber bumpers for your chuck would be the ideal way, but you probably don't have those. Even if you did, I'm not sure you could reverse chuck it to finish the bottom......

wrapping the base with masking tape comes to mind, but we still have the same problem with reverse chucking it to finish the bottom....

I've tried wrapping the badger hair with masking tape, and grabbing onto that, but it just doesn't work.....

If it were me, I'd hand sand all that crackle off and give it 7-8 spray coats of high gloss poly.

If that's not your flavor, sand it down and do a good oil like Tru Oil.


If none of that tickles your fancy, well, you might have to live with it.

Do you think hand applying another coat of CA, inside at room temperature, would fill in the cracks and give a uniform finish? I'm not sure what I'll do, but it will be well thought out. Shavemac 30mm d01 knots are not cheap!

Valuable lesson I learned from this. Wait at least 48 hours after finishing a handle to install the knot, just to see how it reacts during curing. And don't use CA glue below 70 degrees Fahrenheit!

Originally Posted by prodigy

Valuable lesson I learned from this. Wait at least 48 hours after finishing a handle to install the knot, just to see how it reacts during curing. And don't use CA glue below 70 degrees Fahrenheit!

Noted!!!!!

Just protect that knot when you start going mad scientist on the handle. I use green painters tape when I've had to do work like this in the past. It comes off the badger hair without hurting it at all.

Use it, buy it if you don't have it, don't use whatever you got laying around. I know you wouldn't, but I can just see you wanting to fix the problem ASAP.... Cause that's what I'd be like too.

Originally Posted by prodigy

Do you think hand applying another coat of CA, inside at room temperature, would fill in the cracks and give a uniform finish? I'm not sure what I'll do, but it will be well thought out. Shavemac 30mm d01 knots are not cheap!

I hear yuh! and I agree with yuh!

At this point you have nothing to loose..... except that knot, and gives me a thought that I'll mention at the end.

That's actually a good idea Kyle and would be worth a try. Worse case if it doesn't work, you're still no further up shit creek and resort back to plan B.

Now back to my thought....

If worse comes to worse, you trim that handle down, get that knot outta there and start at square 1. Obviously a last resort, but that knot is worth far more than a buckeye burl handle. Just sayin.....