Thread: Any HardWood Floor Lovers Here?

This is a refinishing job I did on my parents white/red oak flooring. I was determined to not use polyurethane ---- so I used a phenolic resin/oil based varnish (Rockhard Table Top Varnish by Behlen). I think it was final sanded to about 120 grit --->a sealer coat (50/50 varnish/thinner) --> a light hand sanding ----> water-based pore/crack sealer ----> 120 grit sanding (mostly hand and orbital sander) ---> stain (I believe Spanish oak by Zar) ---> and then 4 to 5 hand brushed (3 inch boars hair) coats of the Rockhard Varnish (first coat 50/50 and final coats 75/25 varnish/thinner). Over all drying time (until complete cure about a month). The pictures shown are after a year of light (bedroom) traffic. You might like it .


Justin

P.S. I think the room was about 18' x 15' ---- feel free to open a discussion.

WOW Justin - That looks fantastic! (three thumbs up). Bet your parent's are pleased.

James.

Were you concerned about using polyurethane because of the drying time? That's a pretty good job, by the way; it looks very nice!

Looks great Justin! Looks well worth the effort you put into it. I love hardwood floors. Am currently remodeling my upstairs. I intend to eventually put hardwood floors over the existing fir tongue and groove wood. I refinished the fir in one room and turned out great. You won't believe what was installed for a subfllor under the fir. 1" rough cut black walnut. Studs and rafters are all red oak. Needless to say it is an old 2 story farmhouse built in 1914. Ever try to drive sheetrock screws into old oak? have to use squaredrives, some still need predrilled. Anyway, didn't mean to hijack your thread. Great job on your floors. I hope when I get that far mine will look as nice.
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Del

Originally Posted by Jimbo

WOW Justin - That looks fantastic! (three thumbs up). Bet your parent's are pleased.

James.

Thanks James --- they didn't get the typical polyurethane floor that is the usual these days. First it is oil-based, then it's a phenolic resin varnish (common in the early 1900's) and it was hand applied. I could have waxed it but that's extra work for them but it would last longer and would be more beautiful. They can say they have something a little different ---- thanks again.


Justin

Originally Posted by Howard Newell

Were you concerned about using polyurethane because of the drying time? That's a pretty good job, by the way; it looks very nice!

No the drying time on most polyurethanes (especially water-based) are significantly shorter (water-based --about a week). Of course when I mention drying time -I mean complete cure ----even this varnish could be recoated in about 12 hours. I wanted to use an old varnish because it was different, some say (I think) more beautiful, and maybe a little old school. Polyurethanes have going for them ease of application and durability ---but phenolic resins (bakelite) are pretty close in hardness and this stuff is tough for sure. Polyurethane can also take on a plastic/hazy look --- if you could see this floor you would agree that it had real depth and clarity ---- I was also planning on waxing it originally -- you can't (shouldn't) do this with polyurethane if you plan on recoating in the future (polyurethane has problems even adhering to itself) ,

So there you go,

Justin

Originally Posted by kimbal

Looks great Justin! Looks well worth the effort you put into it. I love hardwood floors. Am currently remodeling my upstairs. I intend to eventually put hardwood floors over the existing fir tongue and groove wood. I refinished the fir in one room and turned out great. You won't believe what was installed for a subfllor under the fir. 1" rough cut black walnut. Studs and rafters are all red oak. Needless to say it is an old 2 story farmhouse built in 1914. Ever try to drive sheetrock screws into old oak? have to use squaredrives, some still need predrilled. Anyway, didn't mean to hijack your thread. Great job on your floors. I hope when I get that far mine will look as nice.
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Del

Thanks Del --- oak is some hard stuff --black walnut? --damn that's nice stuff. The way I did it was an exercise in patients and is not the easiest way but polyurethanes are not the only way to go. Ever seen a shellaced floor (waxed) ---man that's beautiful --not as durable but can be refinished easily. Usually it's a trade off between durability and ease of refinishing. Good luck with your projects .

Justin

Justin, I don't think I've ever seen a better looking finish on a floor. Do you do that professionally?

Originally Posted by DMS

Justin, I don't think I've ever seen a better looking finish on a floor. Do you do that professionally?

No --that's the first and only time.

Thanks for the compliment.


Justin

Maybe you can use some natural mix of linseed oil, turpentine and beeswax. It will be really nice on hardwood, it's all natural, and easy to maintain. I use it on my wooden razor scales, and handmade instruments...

Nenad