Thread: Cleaning Firearms ..... What Are You Using ?

Hoppe No. 9, used to buy quart bottles by the case from Bowers, back in the day, still have a couple bottes of the old yellow label.

I kept a 10-inch glass pasta jar with a wired glass lid and rubber gasket filled with No. 9. It holds, a 6-inch bull barreled, K frames, over the forcing cone, with the cylinder in the solution or a couple slides and barrel assemblies. Let them soak overnight and the lead & carbon will fall off. Just kept topping off the jar.

An assortment of different width, wooden handle cheap Boar paint brushes, and Artist brushes work well for oiling hard to reach spots, in place of a Shaving Brush used in the video below, as does a syringe with a long needle or squeeze bottle and plastic straw for.

A No. 9, soaked flannel patch and a Dewey rod and jig, plug the ends with foam earplug and let it soak, followed by, patches of Kroil, Sweets, Ballistol or Simple Green, then patches of No. 9, and dry.

The Dewey rods and jags, are worth the price, and will last a lifetime. Do not use a 3-piece rod or a steel rod, buy a good coated rod.

I cut my patches to size, from thin muslin. It has a bit of tooth to the weave, scrubs well, and is absorbent, follow with patches cut from thin flannel, and oil. A yard of muslin from a fabric store, cut into strips will yield a boat load of patch material. A rotary cutter and straight edge will make quick work of cutting. Cut into 4 inch strips, then to size with cutter or pair of scissors. Store the strips folded in plastic shoe boxes. Or cut to size.

For a quick clean, Boar Snakes work well, also, but a good rod and tight oiled patch will tell you of, any issues in a barrel, you can’t feel the boar with a boar snake.

Brake Cleaner, from Sam’s or Costco or Simple Green to degrease small parts and assemblies, after a toothbrush scrubbing and followed by No. 9 and any good lube. And a Can of compressed air, the pressure is just right for blowing out firearms, (3 pack at Costco).

I too, like Moly grease and Mobil One Synthetic motor oil to lube.

I don’t put a lot of faith in any Wonder Oil, though they all work. Regular maintenance, just like your razors is the key.

Here is a good video on Cleaning the AR. (

Cleaning The AR 15" Seminar by Roger Ayscue at Hyatt Guns

).

This video combined with an AR schematic will really help you understand the proper dis-assembly, cleaning, and re-assembly procedure and full of great info and tips.

Guns are bad and you all should be ashamed for owning them. The government will protect us and there is no need for anybody to own a gun.

Now to the original question... If I actually owned any of those evil implements of destruction, here's what I would do:

For semi-auto pistols, side by side shotguns, over-under shotguns semi-auto shotguns, and semi auto rifles, I prefer Hoppes or Breakfree CLP for cleaning with a Boresnake or bronze brushes. The EDC needs a little more frequent attention. I live in the desert so some sort of Dri-lube is a must.

For single-action revolvers, double action revolvers, lever action rifles, bolt action rifles, falling block rifles, and single shot 1000yd target rifles, they get Hoppes first and then whichever lead/copper remover is required to get them back where they need to be according to the Hawkeye Borescope. Ballistol is most often used to finish.

The smokepoles have their own unique cleaning regimen.

The full-autos like to be run wet and there has been a lot of experimentation there.

The suppressors go into the US cleaner with a 50/50 simple green mix.

If I was ever to purchase any of those noisy things, that is how I would take care of them.

I'm telling ya guys.... get some Kroil.

I'm sure I will, there's just a few things on the Buy List in front of it.

Originally Posted by EMC45

I'm telling ya guys.... get some Kroil.

Good stuff.

I always keep a quart of Kroil around, stuff will get into anything. I was turned onto the stuff when a 55gal drum came into the power plant under construction that I was a receiving manager at, somewhere around 1999-2000. I filled a quart squirt bottle full of it and took it home & fell in love with the stuff. I've also used it honing on a Charnley Forest stone...

The only thing negative I have to say about Kroil is- It creeps so well that if you get some in screw holes it will back the screws out. I kept having to tighten up screws on numerous firearms of mine (Ruger SBH, Marlin 1894, Remington Model 11 etc) and I came to the conclusion that is was the Kroil that was creeping all in the threads. The recoil and mechanical nature of the firearms was working it all loose.

Originally Posted by EMC45

The only thing negative I have to say about Kroil is- It creeps so well that if you get some in screw holes it will back the screws out. I kept having to tighten up screws on numerous firearms of mine (Ruger SBH, Marlin 1894, Remington Model 11 etc) and I came to the conclusion that is was the Kroil that was creeping all in the threads. The recoil and mechanical nature of the firearms was working it all loose.

Glad you posted this. I checked out amazon reviews of the stuff and it is apparently the cat's whiskers for removing stuck nuts/bolts. Even rusted stuck. I'm going to get some for that purpose, but doubt I'll lube my firearms with it. Got what I need for that.

Why on earth would you use this on your weapons? I can understand rusty bolts and things like that but weapons? If your weapons are that rusty, you shouldn't have weapons!!!

Kroil cuts through carbon like nothing I have ever seen. It also loosens lead and copper deposits like a champ. MPro7 cuts through the carbon crud very well too. To clarify I use CLP to lube my guns. Frame rails usually get a little grease and if it rotates against something it gets CLP. I do however put a couple drops of Kroil in the yoke on a revolver to slick up the cylinder and have been known to hit the moving parts of a K or J frame internals with it sometimes.

Next on the testing block will be trans fluid and Molybdenum grease. Car care products for the guns. I have heard for years that they all work great. We shall see. I have enough CLP and Kroil and gun grease (RIG, Tetra, etc.) to last a lifetime, however I would like to know that the auto stuff works too. I have heard that it does and very well too.