Results 11 to 20 of 20
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11-16-2013, 09:23 AM #11
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12-18-2013, 04:04 PM #12
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- Crestview, FL
- Posts
- 117
Thanked: 3jdoc, I contacted the composit craft folks and they sent me some samples. They sent me some black in different cell sizes and one piece of yellow. I made a set of black scales (1/4" cells) for my Spyderco Sage4. The samples aren't big enough for a razor. I'm a little unhappy with the finish I got. I was hoping for something a bit shinier. The material now is about 3/16" thick and not very translucent. I imagine black is not the best choice for translucency. Anyway, you mentioned what you used to get the shine. Can you be a bit more specific about the products you used and where to get them? All I used was some stropping paste and strop sprays on Dremel felt wheels. I want to get the scales shinier if I can. I do like them like this but would like to have more options. I still need to do a touch up or two on these scales but I don't think I can get them any shinier with what I have. Thanks for any help.
Oh yeah, on the rear corner of a scale one of the cells material fell out leaving the aluminum showing. I was able to glue a tiny piece in it's place and now you can't tell it happened. Have you had anything like that happen? I talked to Kim at the company about it. He said this almost never happens with the material with smaller cells. Also some people glue the c-tek to a thin liner of various colors and use clear c-tek on top. That keeps this from happening as well as creates some great looking handles. That sounds interesting.
Jack
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12-18-2013, 04:13 PM #13
jdoc
Those red scales are fantastic.
Luis“There's nothing more solemn than truth. There's no greater grievance to a tomb than hypocrisy, or a greater tribute to death than truth”
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12-18-2013, 10:03 PM #14
To do the polish i sanded up to 1200 grit then took it to the buff wheel. The compound i used is a eastwood compound i used the tripoil, stainless then white. It took some time to get it how i wanted and you need to go slow on it. My guess is the small piece fell out because it got to hot for just a moment breaking the bond in between the 2 materials. I have not used a backing on any of it yet but im going to give it a try. Heat is your biggest enemy with c-tek as it only takes a little bit to warp it or break the bond. After you buff it all up give it a wipe down with wd40 to get a real shins. I hope this helps and that you get them how you want but i think they look great how you have them and look forward to seeing more of it. Let me know how it go's.
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12-18-2013, 10:03 PM #15
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12-19-2013, 12:24 AM #16
All these scales are gorgeous!!!
Congrats.
Where there is a great desire there can be no great difficulty - Niccolò Machiavelli & Me
Greeting from Ischia. Pierpaolo @ ischiapp.blogspot.com
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12-22-2013, 01:28 AM #17
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- Des Moines, IA
- Posts
- 295
Thanked: 60
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01-03-2014, 04:10 PM #18
Wow! I havent custom build scales yet... You guys set the bar really high for me!
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01-03-2014, 04:46 PM #19
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- Crestview, FL
- Posts
- 117
Thanked: 3The c-tek manufacturer sent me some sample pieces. Some is small enough to make the knife scales I pictured but not quite long enough for a razor handle. I ordered some red bone and hope to combine it with some black c-tek to make the material longer. Not sure if I will put the bone at one end of the handle or put it in the middle with the balck c-tek on both ends. I'll wait and see the bone first when it arrives. Without seeing it I think I have these options and any should look good:
1. Black c-tek on each end with red bone in the middle.
2. Red bone at each end with the c-tek in the middle.
3. cut the bone and c-tek in several pieces and stagger the materials.
We'll see. If I can get it looking half as good as the red razor handle I'll be REALLY happy.
One thing I'm unsure of is gluing the materials together. I'm wondering if I should drill small holes into the materials to insert metal pins in where the pieces meet. C-tek is somewhat transparent and I don't want to see pins inside the material. Has anyone tried anything like this? Is 2 ton epoxy strong enough to hold c-tek glued to bone? There shouldn't be any excessive force applied to the handle. I have some spare orange G-10 liners for knife handles I can use as a base but I'll need to see the materials together to see if the colors match.
Jack
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01-03-2014, 05:00 PM #20
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- Crestview, FL
- Posts
- 117
Thanked: 3I just added some red and yellow scale liners to the order with the bone. I should be able to get a color combination with the red bone, black c-tek and then orange or yellow or red liners. The liners as backing will make the handles strong and I won't have to worry about the pieces coming apart at a glue joint. I'll post a picture when I'm done if I'm not TOO ashamed of the result.