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Thread: I would love to have your thoughts/opinions...

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    Member SugarcreekForge's Avatar
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    Default I would love to have your thoughts/opinions...

    Ok, so every once in a while, I try to make something completely different from my usual styles and lines in knife making. I tried that with a razor this past week. I make a lot of Japanese style higonokami knives. They have folded brass handles and are fun to make. I have included one in the photos to give you an idea of what they look like and to also show you how I put an antique finish on them. I plan to do the same with this razor. I ground it from ATS34 SS. I know that most of you have seen lots of straight razors and am curious what you think. Keep in mind it is not finished... only heat treated and tempered etc. It won't take much to finish it. I will antique the brass when it is put together.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I love the knife, pretty cool. I know nothing about razor making but it looks good to me. Lots of people on here who do make razors, I'm sure they'll be along.....
    CHRIS

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    Senior Member blabbermouth tintin's Avatar
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    that's an interesting look. won't the edge hit the bottom of the scales?(that wouldn't be good on such a fragile edge)

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    Member SugarcreekForge's Avatar
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    Hi tintin - Thanks. I thought of the same issue. So, I slotted a G10 end piece with a jewler's saw. It is a little hard to see in this photo, but the edge does not bottom out in the end. The sides hit the bevel first like in a normal razor.
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    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    I like the look of the blade and scales open. Personally, I prefer a more traditional looking fit for a closed razor (deeper into the scales), but that's just personal preference. Also, the irregular shape of the tang area makes me think honing and/or stropping might be a little unwieldy, but that's impossible to say and usually something you get used to. Biggest concern would be the balance, as metal scales tend to throw this off. Again, it's a user preference thing, though. And, on another look, will the contour along the spine affect honing? Looks like the bevel angle might change toward the heel.

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    Member SugarcreekForge's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input and feedback, holli4pirating. I am going to set the blade a little bit deeper in the scales. I honed it today to see how it worked and it is not too bad to work with. The brass is not super thick so it does seem to balance ok. The contour on the spine did not affect the honing since the grind line was more the point of contact. But, I am somehow off on my grind near the tip. It does not want to hone right for some reason. I still have a lot to learn :-)
    If I can afford it, I buy the best that I can. If I can't afford, I make it. If I can't make it... I do without!

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Razors have a tapered tang & 2 pce scales have a tapered wedge so that the scales can flex correctly & provide tension on the tang throughout its range of movement.
    Can't see how you can achieve that with higonokami design.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Since you posted a rear view, It struck me if this is the design handle you intend to stick with? That fine fragile razor edge might do better closing in on a piece of leather, just a thought....
    CHRIS

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trimmy72 View Post
    Since you posted a rear view, It struck me if this is the design handle you intend to stick with? That fine fragile razor edge might do better closing in on a piece of leather, just a thought....
    Nope, that would still damage on contact & thru any moisture held by the leather but as I said before the design is basically flawed for a razor.
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    Member SugarcreekForge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trimmy72 View Post
    Since you posted a rear view, It struck me if this is the design handle you intend to stick with? That fine fragile razor edge might do better closing in on a piece of leather, just a thought....
    The blade does not actually touch against the bottom of the G10. You can't really see it in the photo, but I cut a very thin slit with a jeweler's saw. The sides of the blade hit before the edge does. However, I think it would contact if it were dropped or pressed very hard. So, I don't think it is a good solution. I think that a pin stop would probably work better.
    Last edited by SugarcreekForge; 01-16-2015 at 04:04 AM.
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    If I can afford it, I buy the best that I can. If I can't afford, I make it. If I can't make it... I do without!

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