Thread: W&B Rattler / Faux Frameback

Originally Posted by RezDog

One of the things that I really like is when I take an obviously very old set of horn scales and clean them with WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. The color comes back as the deep ground in gunk comes off and the fine lines become visible. It is impossible to show in pictures but the depth and texture is so incredibly rich. Those are great scales on a fantastic razor Andrew.

This one worked out well, turned out to be an 8/8 and doesn't have that much hone wear, scales ended up as a real bonus, didn't think they'd live! Going to do a little more sanding at 2k and 3k, some liquid crox and then it should be finished. Not going to go too far.

Then to pick a time when I'm relaxed, at peace with the Universe, and hone this puppy up!

bevel setting in restoration honing can takes some time. Don't be surprised if you have to put it away and come back another day. Once you have that foundation perfect you can walk through the grits to a perfect shave.

Originally Posted by RezDog

bevel setting in restoration honing can takes some time. Don't be surprised if you have to put it away and come back another day. Once you have that foundation perfect you can walk through the grits to a perfect shave.

Going to use the Naniwa 1k, Lynn's circle to set the bevel, then move up, and this time, I'm going to more formally add some pyramid, going to go Nani 3k, then 5k, then 8k and try some pyramids with the 8k and the 5k, I ended up doing this by trial and error, did some searching here and it's called the pyramid method...it makes sense, so will give it a try...what do you think?

read this first http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html it may save you a little time and help your blood pressure

Originally Posted by RezDog

read this first http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html it may save you a little time and help your blood pressure

There are no chips in the blade...it actually still has quite a bit of sharpness to it...thanks for this Shaun...this is what I need to do I think...sheesh...on the DMT...gulp!

I linked to Glen's second post in the thread...would you agree this is the step is should be doing?

http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ml#post1254398

If you read through it there is a point in which you would start for a edge that is not damaged. You can also use the elevated on the DMT part and then jump to many layers of tape on the 1K. The point to the elevated blade on the DMT is so that the deep stria don't extend into the solder of the finished bevel and you actually don't use up as much steel. You can PM me when you are actually about to start and we can discuss it more then.