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Thread: A very early F. Fenney and some restoration questions

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I would absolutely try to repair those. The repair with the very fine fibreglass weave and epoxy that outback did worked out fantastic. I am not quite as creative and have repaired a few sets of scales by lining them with G-10. It comes as thin as 0.014" which is very close to a 1/64", and it does come thicker too. Bone bleaches well with peroxide. I would be inclined to take a piece of bone, fit it close, bleach it white and then stain it as closely as possible to match it up. I really like orange pekoe tea and espresso for staining. You can then adjust the darkness by sanding a little off with high grit wet dry paper.
    That really is a beauty, both blade and scales.
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    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    As above. ^^^^
    Totally worth saving. Fiberglass cloth and resin repair to reinforce the bone splice in place from underneath will work well.
    Beautiful project piece..
    Congrats.
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    Captain ARAD. Voidmonster's Avatar
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    Definitely repairable. Superglue bonds great to bone. In my experience, there's never been any need for fiberglass and epoxy backing, and I've used superglue for structural pieces of ivory at the pivot.

    Matching the colors will be an interesting challenge. If it were me, I'd try to get enough material to run multiple experiments on until I get it close.

    Your best bet is to dye the add-in piece as close to the color of the original scales as possible, but a tiny bit lighter. Once glued on, use a sponge or paper towel to sort of feather in the dye.

    But the pique work is absolutely worth preserving.
    -Zak Jarvis. Writer. Artist. Bon vivant.

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    Senior Member Storyvillenight's Avatar
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    Shaping and tea-staining a bone sliver and using superglue was exactly what I had in mind so it's great to hear that could work. Because it's not structural, the repair should not come under too much strain. I've had a beef shin ageing outside for a few weeks and intend to cut from that. If it doesn't hold I'll go the scales off and reinforce route...it would certainly make it easier to clean...but this seems to be a great survivor so I kind of want to preserve even the original pins and washers!

    Quote Originally Posted by Voidmonster View Post
    Definitely repairable. Superglue bonds great to bone. In my experience, there's never been any need for fiberglass and epoxy backing, and I've used superglue for structural pieces of ivory at the pivot.

    Matching the colors will be an interesting challenge. If it were me, I'd try to get enough material to run multiple experiments on until I get it close.

    Your best bet is to dye the add-in piece as close to the color of the original scales as possible, but a tiny bit lighter. Once glued on, use a sponge or paper towel to sort of feather in the dye.

    But the pique work is absolutely worth preserving.

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    Senior Member Wolfpack34's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voidmonster View Post
    Definitely repairable. Superglue bonds great to bone. In my experience, there's never been any need for fiberglass and epoxy backing, and I've used superglue for structural pieces of ivory at the pivot.

    Matching the colors will be an interesting challenge. If it were me, I'd try to get enough material to run multiple experiments on until I get it close.

    Your best bet is to dye the add-in piece as close to the color of the original scales as possible, but a tiny bit lighter. Once glued on, use a sponge or paper towel to sort of feather in the dye.

    But the pique work is absolutely worth preserving.
    +1...I agree with Zak. Definitely worth restoring.



    ***Nice to see you posting again Zak!
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    Senior Member Maladroit's Avatar
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    Or you could do what is termed a museum repair - i.e. where you make no effort to disguise the insertion. This is most often done where a piece has significant historical value but a repair is required to provide the structural integrity to allow it to be used.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Yes I've repaired ivory, and bone scales with CA.
    I've used CA n Soda for many repairs on bone, and used no backer. The hardest part is getting it the match color of the original scales, I'm still working on that part.
    But all the repairs to bone are very strong, and have held up to the pinning process.
    This one was missing a large piece from the wedge end, and a small piece from the pivot.
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    And talk about thin..!!
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    Mike

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    Senior Member blabbermouth ejmolitor37's Avatar
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    Very Nice razor. Looking forward to seeing the final product.
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    Senior Member Storyvillenight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    Yes I've repaired ivory, and bone scales with CA.
    I've used CA n Soda for many repairs on bone, and used no backer. The hardest part is getting it the match color of the original scales, I'm still working on that part.
    But all the repairs to bone are very strong, and have held up to the pinning process.
    This one was missing a large piece from the wedge end, and a small piece from the pivot.
    Name:  KIMG1959-1.jpg
Views: 199
Size:  26.9 KB
    Name:  KIMG1962.jpg
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Size:  13.3 KB

    And talk about thin..!!
    Name:  KIMG1963-1.jpg
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Size:  32.5 KB
    Thanks...just to clarify, you still use a bone piece to patch I assume and use the CA and baking soda to attach? Going to start experimenting with tea stains soon. This is goi g to be my Christmas break project.

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