Thread: Wade & Butcher Restore

Originally Posted by Geezer

Looking at the before photo; I am impressed by the way you managed to get that horrible "Devil Spit" off of the razor and get a smooth solid bevel on it. Very well done!
~Richard

Thanks Richard! I didn't get it all, but I can only sand for so long at the 180 level before I finally lose patience and decide it's good enough. It is, just a razor after all and it's not fulfilling its actual purpose just sitting on the bench! lol

How I make wedges:

First, you don't wanna use lead. It's oxidation products come off really easily, and it will oxidize enthusiastically.

I use a tin/bismuth solder I picked up off ebay a zillion years ago, but the Sheffield folks used pewter. Probably relatively low-grade pewter at that (which had some lead in it).

To make wedges with the stuff, get a cheapo teflon coated cookie sheet with a lip around the edge. The trick is to figure out the angle. I don't know it off the top of my head, but you can measure it off some old razors. Prop your cookie sheet up so it creates that angle, then just use a propane torch to drip some metal into the sheet at the end. Once it's cooled, peel it off and trim it to fit.

The end result:

Originally Posted by Voidmonster

How I make wedges:

First, you don't wanna use lead. It's oxidation products come off really easily, and it will oxidize enthusiastically.

I use a tin/bismuth solder I picked up off ebay a zillion years ago, but the Sheffield folks used pewter. Probably relatively low-grade pewter at that (which had some lead in it).

To make wedges with the stuff, get a cheapo teflon coated cookie sheet with a lip around the edge. The trick is to figure out the angle. I don't know it off the top of my head, but you can measure it off some old razors. Prop your cookie sheet up so it creates that angle, then just use a propane torch to drip some metal into the sheet at the end. Once it's cooled, peel it off and trim it to fit.

Cool! I'll have to try that. So, do you melt down into the corner area and let it pool where there corner is naturally rounded. What's your best guess on the angle for propping up the cookie sheet?

My questions may be for naught--the Mrs. already has enough anxiety with me playing with sharp objects and my little belt sander. A torch will only drive it higher. lol.

Exactly. I let it pool at the edge where the lip is. I also let it fill deeper than I'd ever want a wedge thick, then shape and thin with the belt sander... Which is its own bit of work! I drill a hole through the piece of material, put a pin into a small bar of aluminum, stick double-sided tape over the pin, then affix the wedge material to the tape so the pin goes through the hole. Without the pin the heat can loosen the tape enough to pull the work piece off, but it keeps enough hold to prevent it from rotating around the pin. Without the tape, the pin can't keep it from rotating when you change the angle of grinding, so you need both tape and pin.

As for best guess... It doesn't need much. On a standard baking sheet, raising one end up about an inch should do the trick. I used a bigger angle, so I have to change it with the belt sander on every piece I make. :P

Originally Posted by Voidmonster

[....] then shape and thin with the belt sander... Which is its own bit of work! I drill a hole through the piece of material, put a pin into a small bar of aluminum, stick double-sided tape over the pin, then affix the wedge material to the tape so the pin goes through the hole. Without the pin the heat can loosen the tape enough to pull the work piece off, but it keeps enough hold to prevent it from rotating around the pin. Without the tape, the pin can't keep it from rotating when you change the angle of grinding, so you need both tape and pin.

Can you post a picture of what that looks like next time you're shaping a wedge? I'm a "visual learner," which is to say I do better looking and then copying.

Great restoration, simple and keeps the original look

Originally Posted by Doc226

Great restoration, simple and keeps the original look

Thanks Doc! Sticking close to original scale shape, material, and hardware is my general preference--why mess with a good thing!?