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  1. #11
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Just for reference I post thickness's on just about every restore I do

    The scales MUST flex doesn't matter the material

    Horn scales I usually send home with a Thickness between .105 and .115 inches

    ps: Get your scales contoured while they are stuck together, drill the holes, then yank them apart
    Sand them from the insides to Thickness then once you have them where you want them finally make the Wedge and fit it doing final sanding...

    Doing it in that order ESPECIALLY on Horn eliminates most all of your Horn warping issues..

    pps: Check the razor on a Flat surface BEFORE drilling the Pivot Hole

    Just place it on a flat surface, put your finger on the pivot hole and look at the spine in relation to the surface, flip it over and check the back side

    You are going to find three issues

    Spine Warp, Blade Warp, Tang grind angle uneven front to back, knowing this BEFORE drilling the pivot hole allows you to adjust the scale build more than one way

    I only sound smart because I made the mistakes before you did
    Last edited by gssixgun; 06-05-2021 at 04:56 PM.
    "No amount of money spent on a Stone can ever replace the value of the time it takes learning to use it properly"
    Very Respectfully - Glen

    Proprietor - GemStar Custom Razors Honing/Restores/Regrinds Website

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    Audels1 (06-05-2021)

  3. #12
    Senior Member Audels1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Just for reference I post thickness's on just about every restore I do

    The scales MUST flex doesn't matter the material

    Horn scales I usually send home with a Thickness between .105 and .115 inches

    ps: Get your scales contoured while they are stuck together, drill the holes, then yank them apart
    Sand them from the insides to Thickness then once you have them where you want them finally make the Wedge and fit it doing final sanding...

    Doing it in that order ESPECIALLY on Horn eliminates most all of your Horn warping issues..
    These were never glued together I shaped and thinned them them separate from each other Then taped them together for the finale shaping and drilling.
    Hind sight being 20/20 I see I took the path of most resistance.

    What glue should I use to be able to pull them apart?

  4. #13
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audels1 View Post
    These were never glued together I shaped and thinned them them separate from each other Then taped them together for the finale shaping and drilling.
    Hind sight being 20/20 I see I took the path of most resistance.

    What glue should I use to be able to pull them apart?

    Some use thin two sided tape, I have used Rubber Cement since I started and still do

    Either way works
    outback, Gasman and Audels1 like this.
    "No amount of money spent on a Stone can ever replace the value of the time it takes learning to use it properly"
    Very Respectfully - Glen

    Proprietor - GemStar Custom Razors Honing/Restores/Regrinds Website

  5. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    I like a piece of paper with a few drops of Elmer's glue, between the scales. Any mess can be cleaned up with a spritz of water and a rag
    Mike

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    Audels1 (06-05-2021)

  7. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I am a double sided tape user and use an aluminium block for shaping if I am planning on making more than one set. It’s a long story. My slabs all start at 0.125” and thin as I shape and sand. I typically don’t measure after I start. I probably should.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

  8. #16
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Double sided scotch tape for me. Its thin and will peal off eazy enough.
    PaulFLUS and Audels1 like this.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  9. #17
    Home of the Mysterious Symbol CrescentCityRazors's Avatar
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    When I have a razor that refuses to center, I generally find that the easy way to make it do so, is to spot sand the inner face of the scales at the pivot. On the scale that is being hit, I sand the area between the pivot hole and the small and of the scale, so that the tang can swing a tiny bit toward that scale. On the other scale, I sand from the pivot hole toward the central part of the scale, so that the shank and thus the blade can swing a little bit toward that scale. Easy does it. You don't need to remove very much material at all.

    I like using size 0-80 brass bolts, nuts, and washers from www.microfasteners.com . Easy to apply for test fittings, easy to remove for more work.

    Don't get in too big a hurry. You got a nice project started and you will have reason to be proud of the results if you don't cut corners.

  10. #18
    Senior Member Audels1's Avatar
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    I thinned the scales and got the blade centered by manipulating the pins it works but is not pleasing to the eye. the scales look like thy are trying to twist around each other.

  11. #19
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    It's all a learning experience. If you are not happy with them, try again another day. It seems easy enough in the beginning but there is a little more to it. I'd get another and try again. Then come back to the first one.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  12. #20
    Senior Member Audels1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gasman View Post
    It's all a learning experience. If you are not happy with them, try again another day. It seems easy enough in the beginning but there is a little more to it. I'd get another and try again. Then come back to the first one.
    LOL got plenty to go to. I am just undecided which one to do first. I go it narrowed down to 4. I guess another topic is in order.

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