Thread: First attempt.

Before I broke a scale.



After my first try at scales from scratch.




The blade is off center so much so the edge would hit the scale when closing. I managed to get it over just enough to clear the scale by using a spacer on one side of the blade. Not happy with the result.

The scales look nice, but a bit thick.

What are the scales made of?

Did you drill the pin holes with the scales glued together?

Nice work on the blade and the pinning looks pretty good for your first pinning job.

I wish my first set of scales looked that good.

I agree with Rez. My first set didnt look that good. Nice job. Bjt as Marty said they do look a little thick. Did you check the blade to see if it was straight when it was apart?

I felt thy were a bit to thick that could also be why I felt like the original lead wedge was to narrow.
thy were not glued together when I drilled them but thy were taped.

Scales are made of black buffalo horn.

The blade did have a twist on one side witch I found odd. I did see in another thread a way to move it to the center by manipulating the pins but I just cant seem to figure out how to make it work.

I think most people make them thick the first try or even few tries. I have sets I thinned out more than once.

Nice work on the scales. Try tapping the pivot pin on opposite side that hits. It may bring it closer to center.

You have done a good job. With a twist it takes some special details in pinning. Some times even setting one scale higher than the other to un align the pin holes a touch. Just watch tapping the pin too much as you dont want the pivot too tight or crack a scales.

The wedge also looks like it does not have enough taper. The angle should match the angle of the tang. But because the scales are so thick, they may not flex enough.

Horn is very easy to work. If you do not have a set of calipers, good plastic ones are available from General for a few dollars. Even the Harbor Freight calipers digital calipers are good enough for this level of accuracy in making and thinning scales.

Did you drill the holes when the scales were flat? If not, then you pin holes may not be square to the inside of the scales and the pin hole in the blade. It does not take much to throw the tip out of alignment.

If you drill the pin holes a bit large, (5/64 for a 1/16 pin, not all rod is the same thickness, measure) and the wedge is not glued in place you can adjust the scales and wedge and move the pivot pin by tapping the in the direction you want the blade tip to move.

For example, in the photo, tap the left pin on the back side to move to the right (Blue Arrow) and tap the right pin to the back (Red Arrow). It does not take much movement to move the blade tip.

But if you glued the wedge or if the holes are too tight, you will need to unpin and redrill to center the blade.

This is why you mock-up with bolts before you pin. You also may want to leave your wedge a bit large, and drill the wedge hole larger, so if you need to move the pins and spacer you have enough material to trim to fit the scales once the scales are adjusted.

I do not trim the wedge to size until the razor is completely pinned and I am happy with the fit. This also makes the wedge fit to the scales with no gaps.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

The wedge also looks like it does not have enough taper. The angle should match the angle of the tang. But because the scales are so thick, they may not flex enough.

Horn is very easy to work. If you do not have a set of calipers, good plastic ones are available from General for a few dollars. Even the Harbor Freight calipers digital calipers are good enough for this level of accuracy in making and thinning scales.

Did you drill the holes when the scales were flat? If not, then you pin holes may not be square to the inside of the scales and the pin hole in the blade. It does not take much to throw the tip out of alignment.

If you drill the pin holes a bit large, (5/64 for a 1/16 pin, not all rod is the same thickness, measure) and the wedge is not glued in place you can adjust the scales and wedge and move the pivot pin by tapping the in the direction you want the blade tip to move.

For example, in the photo, tap the left pin on the back side to move to the right (Blue Arrow) and tap the right pin to the back (Red Arrow). It does not take much movement to move the blade tip.

But if you glued the wedge or if the holes are too tight, you will need to unpin and redrill to center the blade.

This is why you mock-up with bolts before you pin. You also may want to leave your wedge a bit large, and drill the wedge hole larger, so if you need to move the pins and spacer you have enough material to trim to fit the scales once the scales are adjusted.

I do not trim the wedge to size until the razor is completely pinned and I am happy with the fit. This also makes the wedge fit to the scales with no gaps.

That helps a lot I was trying to tap the top and bottom of the pins and not the front and back. The wedge has almost the same taper as the original lead one just a bit larger.

I would have done a mock up but did not have bolts to fit. Anticipation would not let me wait for them..lol so I had to wing it. I do have a set of digital calipers but did not think the size was that critical.

I am not apposed to un pinning them and shaving them down a bit so that may be my next move.

Thanks for the help
John