Thread: Seraphim Seramix (tm) razor in process...

SWEET!

Was that a video of blade durability, or a "how-to" for mumbly-peg!



As far as high grits go.....I tried using a 1200 diamond plate to set the bevel, and it chipped the edge disasterously.

The 9um diamond film is much kinder to the ceramic, the diamonds seem to be set into the material more or something. I'm still learning exactly what works best.


And as far as how the edge is to begine with: the very edge is a very steep bevel, like probably 40 degrees or so, so that probably won't give you such a great shave, as most straight have a bevel of 15-18 degrees, DE blades are like 20-25degrees.

Gave the razor a test drive on New Year's.

Shaved like kaa-kaa.

Well, actually it felt smooth against the skin, but it didn't shave off the whiskers very well.



I think the problem is that the edge bevel is at like >25 degrees, so that even with a nice clean edge (see pic at 200x) it is too "wedgey" to slice the whiskers in two cleanly.

When I do HHT with the razor, it will cleave easily through the hair halfway, but then the hair folds over, and the razor continues to slice the hair lengthwise, liek it's filleting it. I think that shows what's going on.

So, I have to re-set the edge bevel to a much lower angle before trying it out again.

The only other bummer about the razor is that you don't get to strop it before you use it. That really felt weird to just pick up the razor and give it a go...

OK well the info I mentioned in the other thread Seraphim was based on some findings from some European dudes, so who knows lol.

Anyway, you have my interest, that's a great looking blade (the black looks cool). I'm anxious to see if you get any results after you tweak some more. Good luck!

It is a bummer about the poor shaving. I have been watching this thread. I think that your idea is one of the most innovative and interesting that has been posted here. Hopefully the change in angles will make a difference. Thanks for the update on your experimentation.

Charlie

Sera,

Far be it from me to tell another how to run his life, but... get rid of the shank whatever it is and the scales and send the blade to Charlie who can make it into a proper frameback. I've seen his work and it is goood! Once that transformation is accomplished, then you'll be able to sharpen it so it can cut whiskers. I'm guessing your existing bevel included angle is much greater than 25 degrees - which angle ain't that much more than a razor bevel of what (?), 15-17 degress.

Free advice, given freely; what a marvelously invaluable gift.

Originally Posted by Bruce

Sera,

Far be it from me to tell another how to run his life, but... get rid of the shank whatever it is and the scales and send the blade to Charlie who can make it into a proper frameback. I've seen his work and it is goood! Once that transformation is accomplished, then you'll be able to sharpen it so it can cut whiskers. I'm guessing your existing bevel included angle is much greater than 25 degrees - which angle ain't that much more than a razor bevel of what (?), 15-17 degress.

Free advice, given freely; what a marvelously invaluable gift.

Thanks Bruce.

I'll leave the telling me of how to run my life to more experienced hands--------my wife!


And I used a set of calipers and some CAD software to determine edge bevel (width of blade, width of spine: sines, cosines, hypotenuses...the whole nine yards...) So I'm fairly confident in at least being within a degree or two of the actual bevel angle.

As far as re-shanking it and re-scaling....now you've gone too far!


Can't you see that covered tang is the rare and exotic hardwood of the Tum-Tum tree?

And the scales are made of the curved black beak of the Jubjub bird??

At Seraphim Seramix Razor Corp, we don't cut corners on the small stuff! No sir!



Alright, alright.....If you look closer the Tum-Tum tree wood looks alot like the wood they used in Taiwan to put a handle on a $15.95 ceramic paring knife for Home Shopping Network that I millled down to useable shape (actually, the extremely curved monkey tail feels quite nice!). And the scales are leftover castaway plastic beauties from some other project.

I would not put any extra $$$$ into this razor unless it proves itself performance-wise first.

And unless the frameback is also made of ceramic, it will not help one bit to sharpen it, as the biggest issue is that ceramic is unbelieveably hard. It is off the Rockwell scale.

Zirconia is very hard; it ranks 8.5 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, compared to 6 to 6.5 for hardened steel, and 10 for diamond, giving a very hard edge that rarely needs sharpening. However, when sharpening is needed, they cannot be resharpened the same way as steel blades, which are often sharpened with a ceramic whetstone. To sharpen the edge of a blade a material harder than the one that is being sharpened is required, and ceramic knives are usually sharpened with industrial grade diamond sharpeners

I created my own black-box technology for setting the honing angle, and it works quite effectively, that isn't the issue.

The issue is that honing this thing eats $50 diamond lapping sheets for lunch and mocks me!

If I use 9 micron sheets to attain some sort of material removal speed that will be accomplished before I die of old age, it leads to edge chipping.

I use lower grit film so I don't get edge chipping, you could probably build a life size replica of the pyramids of Egypt in less time than it would take me to reset the bevel.... (I do alot of crying when honing this razor....)

So I tried the "middle road" use the 9um for bulk removal, and then the finer stuff at an increased edge bevel for smoothing it out.

Looks like I need to re-think my strategy....


P.S.- Who is Charlie anyhow?

Sera,

Charlie is Spazola who posted one above me. It was he who sent condolences to temper your frustrations. It was I who sent the pithy suggestions feeling that inspiration was needed rather than consolation.

You're welcome... anytime

Have you tried the Ceramic "crock sticks" used for knife sharpening? I am referring to the round ceramic sticks.

Lansky Knife Sharpener-Lansky Crock Stick sharpeners; Professional, Deluxe Turn Box, Sharp Stick

The eraser helps with cleaning the sticks.

The advantage is that there is more pressure on a specific spot on the razors edge during the honing stroke thus making a more aggressive cutting action. But...it is much easier to chip out the edge.

Just an idea,

Comments?

Maybe try contacting Phil up in Canada at Flint knives and see if he'd be willing to try sharpening it? (Seeing as he produces ceramic knives he has the means to sharpen them dunno if he has the means to change his bevel angles though)