Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23
Like Tree15Likes

Thread: Tonsorialmatic

  1. #11
    Member MrIdentical's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    83
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    That is epic! I give it High Five out of Ten!

  2. #12
    AKA "Padlock" LinacMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Auburn, Alabama
    Posts
    816
    Thanked: 646

    Default

    Charlie,

    If I only had a fraction of your creativity.....

  3. #13
    Senior Member shutterbug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Guthrie, Oklahoma
    Posts
    419
    Thanked: 217

    Default

    Charlie, You Sir are too dang creative, by half....
    Keep'em commin'

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Central new jersey, USA
    Posts
    728
    Thanked: 240

    Default

    I think the most "steampunk" part is the name tonsorialmatic, awesome! Not that the rest is not great but I love the name

  5. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Burkburnett TX
    Posts
    3,096
    Thanked: 2392

    Default

    Thanks everybody for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated

    Quote Originally Posted by tumtatty View Post
    How did you get the wording in there so crisp and perfect?
    I did the toner (copy machine) transfer a bunch of times until I got where I was happy with it. I would do the transfer, see mistakes then steel wool the letters off (cuss a little) and do it again. It was just persistence.

    If you search for "copper etch toner" there is a lot of info on the net.

    Quote Originally Posted by Str8Raz0r View Post
    How did you make those scales mate.
    Each side of scales are two pieces of copper sheet that are soldered together.

    • cut out scales
    • cut out pocket to make frame looking scale
    • solder together
    • use a copy machine copy of the text for acid resist (lots of info on net)
    • etch in ferric chloride
    • put razor together
    • take blade out and antique and patina
    • put razor back together


    That is it in a nutshell

    Charlie
    Last edited by spazola; 08-11-2011 at 05:49 PM.
    Geezer likes this.

  6. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:

    baldy (08-14-2011), Geezer (08-14-2011), HNSB (08-11-2011), Str8Raz0r (08-13-2011), tumtatty (08-11-2011)

  7. #16
    Senior Member str8fencer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Oslo Norway
    Posts
    1,848
    Thanked: 438

    Default

    Lovely razor, it looks absolutely great! I love the copper, and it goes brilliantly with that elegant, stripped-down razor. Kudos.

  8. #17
    Senior Member tumtatty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    407
    Thanked: 72

    Default

    I've had the damndest time getting that process to work. What's your secret? I've done the Rootkiller in water with a car battery charger but it seems to eat right through the toner. Also, you are right, getting the toner to stick to the metal sucks!! Do you do multiple layers?

    I'd given up on this until I saw your set of scales.

    Thanks!

  9. #18
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Burkburnett TX
    Posts
    3,096
    Thanked: 2392

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tumtatty View Post
    I've had the damndest time getting that process to work. What's your secret? I've done the Rootkiller in water with a car battery charger but it seems to eat right through the toner. Also, you are right, getting the toner to stick to the metal sucks!! Do you do multiple layers?

    I'd given up on this until I saw your set of scales.

    Thanks!

    I used transparency sheets out of copy machine. Put the copper on an inverted clothes iron then burnished with a low temp soldering iron with the tip rounded off and polished. I then etched in ferric chloride. The tricky part is finding the right temperature, too hot the toner starts to flow and get smudged too cool and the toner does not stick well. It took me more than a few tries to get it right.

    Charlie

  10. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:

    Geezer (08-14-2011), HNSB (08-11-2011), tumtatty (08-11-2011)

  11. #19
    Senior Member shutterbug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Guthrie, Oklahoma
    Posts
    419
    Thanked: 217

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spazola View Post
    Thanks everybody for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated

    I did the toner (copy machine) transfer a bunch of times until I got where I was happy with it. I would do the transfer, see mistakes then steel wool the letters off (cuss a little) and do it again. It was just persistence.

    If you search for "copper etch toner" there is a lot of info on the net.

    Each side of scales are two pieces of copper sheet that are soldered together.

    • cut out scales
    • cut out pocket to make frame looking scale
    • solder together
    • use a copy machine copy of the text for acid resist (lots of info on net)
    • etch in ferric chloride
    • put razor together
    • take blade out and antique and patina
    • put razor back together


    That is it in a nutshell

    Charlie
    Most awesome, Charlie!
    Thanks for the steps.
    I may be crazy, but I tend to draw the line at playing with acid. I'll stick to super hot small torches and molten metal.....

  12. #20
    < Banned User >
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    miami,fl
    Posts
    577
    Thanked: 69

    Default

    wow... charlie once again you show the true artisan craftsman you are......

    incredible work...

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •