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  1. #1
    Senior Member TrilliumLT's Avatar
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    I would leave the pitting on the tang if your worried about losing it. Dremels you have to be VERY careful not to clip the edge. Flap wheels don't really work for this they are just to stiff. Lightly hand sand the scales with 800 grit and move up to 2000.
    It's looking good. Keep at it.

  2. #2
    Senior Member adbuett's Avatar
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    Like Trillium said, if you want the maker's mark leave the pitting. If you don't want the pitting, lose the maker's mark. For dremeling I like to use this neat little rubber flap wheel thing dremel has for it's EZ-lock system: ez lock wheel. It works really well, and it's easy to get in and clean on the shoulder because of the thinness of the wheel. I got mine from Lowes/HomeDepot for like 5-6 bucks. Of course you need the EZ lock mandrel too though... If you're going to use a Dremel, and haven't already, read up on the dangers of using one on a razor. You always want the wheel spinning so that it can't catch an edge. Search through the restoration forum for some info, definitely. Don't want to see your next post be "I can't believe what I just did" or "I only have 9 fingers now"! Good luck, and safe restoring!

  3. #3
    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    Trillium and adbuett have it. The decision is makers mark or no/little makers mark. That's your call.

    Scales, the Dremel loose cotton wheel does a nice job. What are they made of? You can take 1000 grit to them lightly, and go up from there. Finish it off with Maas or a similar compound, and then buff out with your cotton dremel wheel.

    I'm not big on the flap wheels myself. Dremel makes a sanding pad in three grits. It looks like a disk sink scrubby, but purple. It works fairly well...followed by hand sanding and polishing.

    Good luck!

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