Thread: Custom "W.Greaves" Built to Specs

Gssixgun
Any issues getting Teak oil to dry on ebony. I can't say I have any experience with Teak oil. I've lost count of the number of rifle forend tips and grip caps I've made from ebony and rosewood. The oils in those woods as you know can cause drying problems with some finishes. I've found that swabbing on alcohol to leech out the surface oils prior to finish usually works. BTW I'm working on my 1st set of scales and in ebony so this post caught my attention. Have you ever left ebony scales unfinished and just polished them up?
Regards,
Karl

Thank you G for a job well done, please note everyone she is far more beautifull in person, I had just a light polish done to keep the charater and history visible.

Originally Posted by karlej

Gssixgun
Any issues getting Teak oil to dry on ebony. I can't say I have any experience with Teak oil. I've lost count of the number of rifle forend tips and grip caps I've made from ebony and rosewood. The oils in those woods as you know can cause drying problems with some finishes. I've found that swabbing on alcohol to leech out the surface oils prior to finish usually works. BTW I'm working on my 1st set of scales and in ebony so this post caught my attention. Have you ever left ebony scales unfinished and just polished them up?
Regards,
Karl

Teak Oil, is actually the best choice for the difficult woods IME... I use an Acetone wipe down before I start any finishing on any wood...

Some of the really oily Ebony can be just buffed and then waxed or Bee's waxed persoanlly I don't leave natural raw wood regardless of the "waterproofness" for razor scales not even Lignum.. Basically any of those woods are what the Teak Oil wooks best on