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Thread: Big W&B

  1. #11
    senior member Zomax's Avatar
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    Majorly nice restore but I have a question.... in the before picture, the "er" in Butcher looks totally rusted out but in the after pic, the printing on the tang
    looks complete and perfect.
    How did you do that??

  2. #12
    Senior Member mycarver's Avatar
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    Thanks,
    Well the majority of the E was there but the R was covered with the crust of rust. Knock the rust off and then sand up to the lettering. The bulk of the rust was in open areas and was easy to remove and blend that surface. It's just a matter of being able to sand right up to the etch without touching the edges of the lettering or design. But you can see there is still some marks under the S and the H. Had I tried to remove more of this the depression left would have shown up in the bevel line across the spine. There is only so far I can go. But it looks better and I didn't leave a rippled or wavy surface. That's why I blend it out into the surrounding metal. Just sort of make it all disappear.

    Not sure if you saw my John Heiffor in Black Palm ,, but I did the same thing there where it was covered with rust over a nice design etched into the blade.
    I enjoy swatting at gnats, but it seems to help the overall piece.

    Here is the Heiffor piece

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...lack-palm.html
    Last edited by mycarver; 12-03-2012 at 02:03 PM.

  3. #13
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    Very well done! I have a heavily rusted W and B and this certainly serves as inspiration to see what it can become! I only wish I had your skills and patience!

  4. #14
    Senior Member mycarver's Avatar
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    Oh , it's surprising what can be done with rusted razors. The three I posted, " Gruesome Threesome" were rather encrusted and they came out decent enough to use.

    I seem to get the lost causes. Careful sanding goes a long way.
    maddafinga likes this.

  5. #15
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    Just wondering how you got the black to stand out in the lettering?
    MuskieMan33 likes this.

  6. #16
    Member Haza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a1jetta View Post
    Just wondering how you got the black to stand out in the lettering?
    I have the same question to ask, since I'd like to have
    a similar effect in my J. Allen (look at t 7th pic)

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...ns-scales.html

    thank you
    MuskieMan33 likes this.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Zelenbakh's Avatar
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    Fantastic restoration, looks like new. Great work.

  8. #18
    Senior Member MuskieMan33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a1jetta View Post
    Just wondering how you got the black to stand out in the lettering?
    I have the same question to ask, since I'd like to have
    a similar effect in my J. Allen (look at t 7th pic)

    J. Allen&Sons + Scales

    thank you
    For you guys curious as to how to get the black to stand back out in the blade, I do not know how mycarver did it. But I did run across this while I was looking at some things.

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-question.html

    I don't know how effective it is, but It might be worth a shot. On the W&B above, it could also just be polishing compound left in the engraving. I've had a few razors that the engraving on the tang really pops out after polishing because some left over polish will stay in the engravings. But the Wade above does look awesome and I would like to know how mycarver did it as well.
    Haza likes this.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to MuskieMan33 For This Useful Post:

    Haza (01-26-2013)

  10. #19
    Senior Member mycarver's Avatar
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    In this case I didn't do anything to blacken the etch. In some cases I have used acids to good effect. It seems once the metal is etched with it the color remains pretty well as opposed to bluing which I have used but it seems do fade pretty quickly.

  11. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mycarver For This Useful Post:

    Haza (01-26-2013), MuskieMan33 (01-27-2013)

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