Quote Originally Posted by HNSB View Post
Tim, I haven't built many arrows for a longbow, but... Especially if you're only shooting spots, it might be worth trying much heavier points (like 135 or better) with a short shaft that puts you on the light side of the spine chart for that weight and length.
Basically, get as much weight forward of center as possible while still keeping a dynamic spine on the soft side.
If you're having a hard time finding shafts to fit that, the first place I'd deviate is on the length, going for a slightly longer shaft that spines ok.

Of course... that depends on how much weight you're pulling too, I suppose.
I like your way of thinking. I will have related questions in the future but for now i feel I have much more to gain in my form than in the arrow. I have only shot this thing 4 times. My baseline score was 137. My first posted score for leagues was 133. [Don't criticize my math at this time of night!] but it was something like a 35- 36 -62. I changed my bow shoulder. I was trying to lock it but when i relaxed it improved. Immediately after, I scored again and i got a 156. This style is fun, if I pinwheel the X i am elated!

I was talking to a friend that went to state this year and shot barebow. he shot against and beat a guy that shot full length 2712's with 300 grain tips. He was aiming with the point of the arrow. He must have been close to hitting the ceiling of the gym! Not a bad idea but it didn't work.

For you that don't understand the nomenclature Easton sizes their arrows with 4 numbers. the first 2 are the diameter in 64ths of an inch. the second pair is the wall thickness in thousands of an inch. So a 2712 is 27/64ths of an inch in diameter and 12 thousands wall thickness. that makes more sense than a lot of the companys out there.

Tim