Results 1 to 9 of 9
![Like Tree](https://sharprazorpalace.com/vbseo/resources/images/forum/vbseo_likes_heart.png)
Thread: First Pipe Stem Restoration
-
03-01-2012, 02:51 AM #1
First Pipe Stem Restoration
I picked up a couple of NOS Brigham pipes, which I like for being Canadian, not to mention darn good pipes. The only problem was, they had badly oxidized stems. After a lot of reading and poking around pipe forums, I gave it a go. I soaked the stems in 50/50 water and bleach to lift the oxidation, then sanded them from 400 wet/dry up to 12k micromesh. Then I buffed them with a soft cloth and some olive oil. I am pretty pleased with the outcome as they now look like brand new and are ready to enter my rotation.
Before:
After:
-
03-01-2012, 03:06 AM #2
Very nice! I have a yello-bole from the 1930's with a really oxidized stem, and have actually been considering sending it in to be professionally redone. Really beautiful pipe, too, a sandblasted bulldog with a saddle stem. But maybe I'll try your method.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to ChesterCopperpot For This Useful Post:
jdto (03-02-2012)
-
03-01-2012, 03:10 AM #3
Those are beautiful! Nice work.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Wintchase For This Useful Post:
jdto (03-02-2012)
-
03-01-2012, 03:46 AM #4
A couple of things I picked up doing this. Be careful with the bleach, but make sure you leave it long enough to do its work. 50/50 bleach/water. For example, the 2-dot stem is still a bit oxidized and could have probably been left in a bit longer. I'll give it a try with a kit I got from Walker Briarworks that supposedly helps pull out the oxidation. If that doesn't work, I'll go again with another bleach/water bath. I left them in for about 20-30 minutes.
The second thing is, sand with the stem attached. Even if you have to polish the shank a bit when you're done, if you sand without it attached, you'll end up with a gap there. I had all the sandpaper and micromesh from scale-making and straight razor restoration, so that helped, but it's a good idea to go to at least 2000 grit if you don't have micromesh.
-
03-02-2012, 03:47 AM #5
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Republica de Tejas
- Posts
- 2,792
Thanked: 884WOW!!
Very nice!!
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Wullie For This Useful Post:
jdto (03-02-2012)
-
03-02-2012, 11:17 AM #6
-
The Following User Says Thank You to buckeye For This Useful Post:
jdto (03-02-2012)
-
03-02-2012, 11:41 AM #7
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Location
- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
- Posts
- 2,895
- Blog Entries
- 8
Thanked: 993Those came out really nice JD....now its time to enjoy the fruits of your labour!
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Maxi For This Useful Post:
jdto (03-02-2012)
-
03-02-2012, 12:37 PM #8
Jack those look great. The kit from Walker Briar Works is really effective too. IMHO you played it right by not soaking the inlay in the bleach solution. Start using the Walker kit on occasion and you'll keep oxidation at bay for years.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Rugbysh9 For This Useful Post:
jdto (03-02-2012)
-
03-02-2012, 02:05 PM #9
I will use the Walker kit on them when it arrives, to finish up, but the bleach worked pretty well. I did cover the dots with Vaseline before the bleach bath. My new project is taking an absolutely gross, abused pipe and bringing it back to life. I'll post up some progress shots.