Thread: Introduction and Forging a Razor from a File

The main area to be concerned about distortion is in the tube that the bar with the wheels on it slides into. When you weld it, put the bar into it, and add paper spacers. This will take care of the heat shrinkage issue. You may have to use an hydraulic press to remove the bar after welding. The Guild of Metalsmiths built around 20 of them several years ago, and I was involved in the welding. They were also a KMG clone. I have a KMG, which we used to redesign several areas. Again, PM if you need help.

Well the belt grinder has been put temporarily on hold as my truck's radiator had to be re-cored so I'm trying to finish any outstanding requests to pay for that and other parts the truck needs. The buyer of the razor had originally given the okay for a wedge so I proceeded to HT'ing after putting a slight upturn in the tang or handle. For both the razor and the knife in the picture there was a very slight curve after the 1st hardening (the razor's curve I think was from forging earlier) So back to the forge, straightened, normalized and hardened again. 2nd time around both appear to my eyes as straight as can be. Then I put them in the kitchen oven at 400' for 1 hr and they each came out a nice light straw color.

Now normally for a knife at this point I'd let it cool and then do a differential temper using the stove. I'll do that for the knife, but I believe a 2nd tempering cycle at 400 for 1 hour is what's recommended correct? I'll give each a very light sanding before doing either in order to observe the colors.



I love how the brand and name of the old file stayed intact. I'm definitely hooked and plan on making a set of these for myself and then learning how to shave with one.

Two tempering cycles sounds good. I would not do any differential heat treating on the razor, unless you are wanting a temper line. I would try 400 and see how it acts on the hones and how the edge acts when shaving. If the edge is chippy are really hard hone I would up the temper temp by 25 degrees and so on. It takes a little bit of experimenting to get the process optimized for your tools in your shop.

Charlie

Thank you Charlie for the feedback and steps testing & tempering. No, I'm definitely not doing a differential temper on the razor. Only for the knife that's in the picture.

Without honing stones or personal experience using a str8 razor, I've taken this as far as I can. The person who asked me to make it has 1000, 4000 and 8000 stones along with a 12,000 hone, and is experienced honing his own razors so I was going to get with him to see if it meets his approval. After he finishes his part I'll post updated pictures.

Best I can tell the grind is even and edge is straight. As I worked it by hand with 220 grit, I would occasionally sand it perpendicular to the paper until the edge was straight and then go back sanding the wedge. Eventually it got to the point where I no longer had to do that as it was remaining straight and the drag across a moistened finger nail felt consistent.

Did he ask you to make a wedge whape? From the pics, it doesn't look hollow ground the slightest.
Honing and maintaining is going to be a real chore.

Yes, early on he had asked for a wedge and said he would hone it by putting tape on the spine. I'd been planning on building a 2x72 grinder in order to do a hollow grind, but that's on hold temporarily as my truck needed the radiator re-cored. After that I asked him if he'd rather wait or proceed with the wedge, he said to go ahead.

Your friend will need a microtome honing guide to hone that blade. It is essentially a tube with a slot cut in it lengthwise. That is slid over the spine of the blade and acts as a honing guide.
Tape would take far to many layers to be practical.

Hope this helps,

I will try to post some pics in a day or two.

Generally speaking, even wedges are hollow ground a bit, just for the sake of being able to hone it.
For this razor, the hone needs something that can be locked over the spine to lift it from the stone, or it will be impossible to hone. And it needs to lock very snug and be immovable, because if the spine has just a bit of freedom, it will not be possible to create nice flat bevels.

This link shows my microtome, the handle for it, and the honing guide that came from the mfg.

King Kongs Razor - a set on Flickr