Thread: Introduction and Forging a Razor from a File

Thank you Ray. It took me awhile to navigate the forum, but I found the thread with your razor from a file build. Very nicely done, I really like the photo showing the phone book and how you kept the old file name & logo! I will update my progress, but from the feedback I've gotten I am going to hold off on these razors until I have been able to buy or build a 2x72. I found a Bader Pro for sale at a reasonable price. If it's still available in a couple of weeks I should be able to get it. If not I'll build my own, there's a lot of good information out there on doing so.

Thanks Randy for the explanation on calculating the angle and the recommended ratios, that is very helpful. Everyone has been a great help so far. I'll keep y'all updated and take lots of pictures along the way, including the grinder build.

If you haven't already found it, USA Knifemakers in Minnesota has a kit and many individual parts for a no-weld 2x72. Go for some kind of variable speed control, either multiple pulleys, or, best, a phase converter speed control. If you want more info on phase converters, PM me.

I've been on the USA Knifemakers site quite a bit today and also downloaded the free grinder plans from SRP to make a KMG 3-speed clone. I would prefer to weld an all steel frame together, but should I be concerned about possible heat distortion to the frame and jacking the alignment? For that reason is it preferable to do a no-weld design? I'd be using a Lincoln Tombstone 220 arc as I don't have a MIG or TIG going w/ cold rolled steel. Could peen the welds and keep moving to minimize distortion.

Sorry, I'm sure this is covered somewhere multiple times in the forum.

The main area to be concerned about distortion is in the tube that the bar with the wheels on it slides into. When you weld it, put the bar into it, and add paper spacers. This will take care of the heat shrinkage issue. You may have to use an hydraulic press to remove the bar after welding. The Guild of Metalsmiths built around 20 of them several years ago, and I was involved in the welding. They were also a KMG clone. I have a KMG, which we used to redesign several areas. Again, PM if you need help.

Well the belt grinder has been put temporarily on hold as my truck's radiator had to be re-cored so I'm trying to finish any outstanding requests to pay for that and other parts the truck needs. The buyer of the razor had originally given the okay for a wedge so I proceeded to HT'ing after putting a slight upturn in the tang or handle. For both the razor and the knife in the picture there was a very slight curve after the 1st hardening (the razor's curve I think was from forging earlier) So back to the forge, straightened, normalized and hardened again. 2nd time around both appear to my eyes as straight as can be. Then I put them in the kitchen oven at 400' for 1 hr and they each came out a nice light straw color.

Now normally for a knife at this point I'd let it cool and then do a differential temper using the stove. I'll do that for the knife, but I believe a 2nd tempering cycle at 400 for 1 hour is what's recommended correct? I'll give each a very light sanding before doing either in order to observe the colors.



I love how the brand and name of the old file stayed intact. I'm definitely hooked and plan on making a set of these for myself and then learning how to shave with one.

Two tempering cycles sounds good. I would not do any differential heat treating on the razor, unless you are wanting a temper line. I would try 400 and see how it acts on the hones and how the edge acts when shaving. If the edge is chippy are really hard hone I would up the temper temp by 25 degrees and so on. It takes a little bit of experimenting to get the process optimized for your tools in your shop.

Charlie

Thank you Charlie for the feedback and steps testing & tempering. No, I'm definitely not doing a differential temper on the razor. Only for the knife that's in the picture.