Thread: Well Ive taken the first steps of practice. Its not much but Im excited to do more.

Originally Posted by wynndow

Yes the length of the blade, usually Ill start at the tang end move toward the tip and back in one motion then dunk. Like mentioned before, prior to HT you can grind on it till you can't hold onto it. But after HT the very thin areas will heat up much quicker then the spot your holding it so frequent dunks are best to be cautious.

And you have the right idea with the blade thickness, and honestly it's up to you personally I know guys that grind full stock after HT and I know guys that will take it down to 1/32 of an inch or less. Personally when I'm HTing a blade that gets quenched in a medium (like oil) I like to leave a little more (around 1/16 or more) just because it's a little more of a violent process as far as the steel is concerned compared to air or plate quenching (which is used on stainless type steels).

That helped alot thank you.

For me, using the same type tools you are using, I would rough it out on the sander, go to files, followed up with sandpaper with a flat backing.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

For me, using the same type tools you are using, I would rough it out on the sander, go to files, followed up with sandpaper with a flat backing.

Can you expand on this? Thank you!

http://straightrazorpalace.com/forge...ake-razor.html